The origins of vindaloo: how the popular Indian dish actually came from Portugal
When anyone thinks of vindaloo, India and its tremendously complex cuisine probably comes to mind. But what few might realize is that this fiery curry actually derived from a rich and meaty preparation from Portugal known as vinha de alhos.
The name vindaloo literally derives from the Portuguese phrase “carne de vinha d’alhos”, which translates as meat in wine and garlic. As in Hindi aloo stands for potato, some people may think the name of this curry is related with the tuber, but that is not the case, as this is not an ingredient traditionally involved in this recipe.
Feat. photo by NYT Cooking
Photo by O Heraldo
In the early 16th century, Portuguese explorers, led by Vasco da Gama, landed on the shores of Goa, an Indian state which, until today, has deep Portuguese historical ties. Goa, with its strategic location along the spice routes, became a bustling center of the spice trade, facilitating the intermingling of Portuguese and Indian culinary traditions.
The original Portuguese dish, carne de vinha d’alhos, that is, meat marinated in wine-vinegar and garlic, was a practical solution for preserving meat during long sea voyages. Beyond taste, during the long sea voyages which took the Portuguese explorers to several corners of the world, such as India, this type of marinade also helped preserve the meat for longer periods of time, just like salting applied to fish eventually giving origin to the much beloved bacalhau you see everywhere in Portugal these days.
Known globally, but specially in its British Indian form, vindaloo has become a staple in curry houses and Indian restaurants worldwide. Traditionally, this Goan curry dish is made from pork marinated in vinegar and garlic, reflecting its Portuguese heritage. However, vindaloo has evolved and now includes variations featuring beef, chicken, lamb, mutton, prawns and, in rarer vegetarian and vegan interpretations, a variety of vegetables, paneer (an Indian cheese similar to cottage cheese), or even tofu. In Goa though, which was a Portuguese colony from 1510 to 1961, you will most likely come across pork vindaloo, as this was the initial protein of choice used by the Portuguese settlers who started doing the recipe on Indian territory.
Photo by Receitas no Robot
The original Portuguese carne de vinha d’alhos consisted of meat marinated in a mixture of red wine and garlic, something which is still quite popular in Portugal today. In fact, more than a recipe as such, vinha d’alhos is a marinade technique, used to make the meat softer and impart a strong taste. This way to flavor meats, also known as vinhadalhos, usually includes other seasonings, namely cumin and a little paprika for flavor and color, and while it is customary in kitchens all across Portugal, it is particularly popular in the archipelago of Madeira.
Photo by Flavors Of My Kitchen
Upon settling in Goa, the Portuguese faced a dilemma: the lack of red wine or wine based vinegar. Eventually they selected palm vinegar as a substitute, as this is an ingredient readily available in the region. This substitution was the first step in the transformation of vinha d’alhos into vindaloo. Local cooks began incorporating indigenous spices such as tamarind, black pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom, which not only imparted a more local flavor profile but also began to redefine the dish in a way that Goans loved and the Portuguese learned to like too.
This new creation, vindaloo, was initially adopted by the Portuguese settlers and soon after by the Goan Christian community, merging the tang of vinegar with the heat of Indian spices, creating a flavor profile that was utterly unique. Vindaloo, as we know it today, became a staple in Goan kitchens, primarily using pork, the preferred meat of the Portuguese, which was also allowed for Christian influenced Goans, as opposed to the vast majority of vegetarians across the rest of India, usually Hindus who don’t eat meat, or Muslims who wouldn’t cook with pork.
Photo by Travel.Earth
The British colonial period saw further changes to the dish. British officials and expatriates, stationed in India, developed a liking for this Goan dish, which was distinctly different from other typical Indian curries. As vindaloo made its way to Britain, it kept transforming. Many would argue that it gradually lost many of its original subtleties, becoming synonymous with extreme heat in many of the UK’s kitchens, thus overshadowing its nuanced blend of spices and vinegar tang, reminiscent of the Portuguese vinha d’alhos, and which characterized the recipe to begin with. If you get to eat a serving of vindaloo outside of India or Portugal, chances are it will today follow this British-Indian interpretation, which is further away than the Portuguese inspired recipe you’d still be able to find around Goa.
One way or another, there’s no arguing that vindaloo is the materialization of how the Portuguese influenced Goan cuisine and, dare we say it, Indian cuisine as a whole. If not because of our recipes and cooking techniques, at least via trade and the introduction of ingredients we wouldn’t imagine Indian cuisine without these days, such as potatoes, chili peppers and tomatoes, all brought from the Americas in the 16th century. Of course we would also need to state that, in return, Indian food has impacted Portuguese local habits as, after all, we see samosas alongside salt cod fritters and meat croquetes in any given Portuguese pastelaria and snack bar.
Photo by Echoes of Travel
One can still observe the impact of Portuguese culture in Goa today, which expands beyond food and is quite evident in this Indian estate’s architectural aesthetics, from the Baroque style churches to the brightly colored villas. And, thankfully, we can still taste this intersection of cultures right here in Lisbon itself.
If you became intrigued about vinha d’alhos and vindaloo (or vindalho), we’d encourage you to taste both dishes to appreciate their distinct flavors as well as their similarities, as you savor the historical ties that bind them.
Photo by PortoBay
Where to eat carne de vinha d’alhos in Lisbon
Ilha da Madeira
To taste carne de vinha d’alhos in Lisbon, your best bet is to visit a Madeiran cuisine restaurant such as this one.
📍Rua Campo de Ourique 33, 1250-059 Lisbon
Madeira Pura
A straightforward place to eat a bun filled with succulent vinha d’alhos meat and wash it all down with a poncha, a refreshing drink from Madeira made with sugarcane rum and fruit juice.
📍Rua do Terreiro do Trigo 72, 1100-604 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/ponchaalfama
Petiscaria da Esquina
Even though, here in Portugal, vinha d’alhos is vastly associated with meat, namely pork, at Petiscaria da Esquina, by chef Vitor Sobral, they make an irresistible version with prawns.
📍Av. República 20 c, 1000-207 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/petiscariadaesquina
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Where to eat vindaloo in Lisbon
Tentações de Goa
Many of the Lisbon based Indian restaurants are owned by Muslims, which means no pork on the menu. To try a typically Goan pork vindaloo, you’d need to head to an establishment serving food from Goa. Thankfully, there’s many Goan restaurants in Lisbon.
📍Rua de São Pedro Mártir 23, 1100-555 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/TentacoesDeGoa
Bengal Tandoori
Delicious vindaloo with either chicken, lamb, beef or prawn.
📍Rua da Alegria 20, 1250-005 Lisbon
https://bengaltandoori.pt/order/digitalmenu
Royal Spice
If you aren’t ready to taste vindaloo with the intensity it would normally have in India, here you can choose your spice level, from low to high.
📍Rua do Conde de Redondo 127, 1150-104 Lisbon
https://royalspice.pt/menus/vindaloo
Atithi
Just like at Royal Spice above, select your preferred protein and spice level, and indulge in authentic vindaloo in the heart of Lisbon.
📍Rua Pascoal de Melo 107, 1000-232 Lisbon
https://atithi.pt/pt/menus/vindaloo-pt
Desi Masala
Here you can taste vindaloo curry with your choice of protein, including chicken, lamb or prawn.
📍Rua dos Correeiros 217, 1100-165 Lisbon
The Oven
To indulge in a fancier than usual tiger prawn vindaloo.
📍Rua dos Fanqueiros 232, 1100-232 Lisbon
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