Abrantes travel guide for food lovers
Going to Abrantes from the Portuguese capital makes sense when you feel like escaping the capital without committing to a full weekend away. Of course, this town would work well for a longer slow trip, but it’s also a great destination for a food inspired day trip from Lisbon. Many visitors who travel to Portugal often favor the coastal areas, but we think going inland can be very rewarding, for a glimpse of a different side, and flavors, our country has to offer.
Feat photo by The Fork
Photo by Médio Tejo
Getting to Abrantes from Lisbon is best done by car, though public transport is also an option. By car, the journey takes around one hour and forty minutes. From the capital, the easiest route is via the A1 motorway in the direction of Porto, exiting at Torres Novas or directly towards Abrantes via the A23, depending on traffic and preference. The drive is simple and mostly motorway and, once you reach, parking in town is generally easy, with several public parking areas near the historic centre.
Public transportation is also a viable option. There are trains to Abrantes departing from Santa Apolónia or Oriente that typically take between one hour and forty minutes to just over two hours, depending on whether you choose an Intercidades or a regional service – check CP for updates schedules and ticket prices. From the station, the town centre is a short taxi ride away or a longer uphill walk for those who do not mind a bit of exercise. There are also bus connections from Lisbon, using Rede Expressos coaches.
Photo by VortexMag
Amongst Portuguese, Abrantes is synonymous with tigeladas de Abrantes, a local convent-style sweet that you can find a little all over the country, but that somehow never manages to taste as good as it does around here. They are also known for palha de Abrantes, a dessert made from strands of egg yolk and sugar, shaped like a nest, not as common to find outside this town. But for anyone curious about regional food traditions, local life and slower travel beyond the usual routes, Abrantes has so much more to offer.
Photo by Hotéis de Campo
Abrantes town centre is an easy place to explore on foot, with distances that encourage wandering rather than planning. The historic centre will invariably lead you towards the Castelo de Abrantes (Rua Dom Francisco de Almeida, pictured above), whose views over the Tagus valley immediately explain why this hilltop was once so strategically valuable. Close by, you’ll find the Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo and other religious buildings that anticipate how Abrantes has historically been connected with conventual sweets.
Photo by Center of Portugal
Despite the size of the town, Abrantes has a good cultural life. The MIAA, Museu Ibérico de Arqueologia e Arte (Rua Jardim da República), offers a solid introduction to the region’s Iberian roots and its long human presence, while the MDF, Museu Metalúrgico Duarte Ferreira (Rua Eduardo Duarte Ferreira 116, Tramagal, pictured above), tells a more industrial story, connecting Abrantes to Portugal’s metallurgical heritage and to the lives shaped by it.
Photo by Amazing Architecture
The Panteão dos Almeida (Rua Dom Francisco de Almeida) offers a more intimate perspective on the town’s past, where history is told through family lineage, housed in an elegant and atmospheric space that stands out for its architecture.
Photo by Turismo Centro de Portugal
Just outside the town, a handful of nearby sites make for easy and rewarding detours, especially if you are travelling by car. The Castelo de Almourol (Praia do Ribatejo), rising from a small island in the middle of the Tagus, is around twenty minutes away and is one of the most eye-catching landmarks in central Portugal. Access to the castle is made by small boats that depart from the riverbank in Vila Nova da Barquinha. Seen from the water, its Templar silhouette appears almost suspended between river and sky, as seen in the picture above.
Photo by Visit Barquinha
In Vila Nova da Barquinha, the Parque de Escultura Contemporânea (Barquinha Parque) provides an unexpected contrast to the region’s medieval and military heritage. Large-scale contemporary sculptures are spread across an open field by the Tagus riverside, encouraging slow walks in nature while appreciating the art.
If you enjoy walking, we also recommend exploring the Lines of Torres, which extend across the wider region and feature marked routes that combine military history with rural scenery. Following these paths offers a way to experience the territory, passing by fortifications, viewpoints and agricultural land.
Food culture in Abrantes has historically been connected with that land, where vegetables, fruits and olive oil are produced, but also to river fish is caught on the Tagus. Sweets, however, are where Abrantes clearly stands out. Tigeladas are, of course, the most famous speciality, next to palha de Abrantes, but these are just two specialities within the wider universe of convent-style pastries rich in egg yolks and sugar.
The best way to understand Abrantes as a food destination is by sitting down at the table. So don’t miss out on the best places to eat Portuguese food in Abrantes:
Best restaurants for Portuguese food in Abrantes
A Velha
A Velha offers a contemporary take on regional cooking with a menu signed by chef Rodrigo Castelo. Starters include river-fish soup with elbow pasta (sopa de peixe do rio), partridge in a vinegar marinade (escabeche de perdiz), served with thin fries, and a bright river-fish ceviche (ceviche de peixe do rio) dressed simply so the fish’s flavor stands out. Mains are mostly comforting recipes, such as a bass fillet over loose tomato rice (filete de robalo com arroz de tomate), the grains glossy and tangy, just like we say in Portugal, naughty rice; slow-cooked veal cheek (bochecha de vitela) that cuts with a spoon, balanced by pickled red cabbage and toasted almonds; and twenty-four-hour confit pork knuckle (pernil de porco confitado 24h) with a coriander and lemon rice for freshness. The house cod (bacalhau da Velha) is iconic and served with coriander bread mash (açorda de coentros). Dessert stays local, as there would naturally be plenty to choose from Abrantes’ sweet repertoire. As expected, tigelada de Abrantes makes a glorious appearance on the menu, consisting of a baked custard made with milk and eggs, featuring a caramelized rim, somewhere between a flan and a clafoutis. Sometimes, here in Portugal, we like to think of tigelada as a pastel de nata minus the puff pastry, even though the centre of a tigelada is usually more caramelized. Velhoses are airy yeast fritters, and at A Velha they come warm with salted caramel, a touch of cured ham, and cream for a sweet-savory finish. This is, hands down, one of the best restaurants in Abrantes.
📍Alameda de Santo António 18, 2200-297 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/avelharestaurante
Photo by Magg
Casa Chef Victor Felisberto
Come to Casa Chef Victor Felisberto to enjoy slow comfort food, with strong Ribatejo roots. The starters alone could be combined to do a great meal petiscos-style, mixing a little grilled Iberian black pork farinheira sausage, sautéed cuttlefish roe (ovas de choco salteadas), fried sweetbreads with mushrooms (moelas com cogumelos), or tiger prawns tossed in the pan. But that’s not to say that you should skip the mains, which will make you happy if you’re looking for something heavier like black pork cheeks confited in the wood oven (bochechas de porco preto confitadas), their the mixed wood-oven roast (assado misto), or the veal steak naco, sure to please meat lovers. If you’re in the mood for something lighter, or simply fish, we’d recommend opting for something like pink swordfish with orange sauce (espadarte rosa com molho de laranja) or even their cod baked under a cornbread crust (bacalhau com broa). No matter what you end up choosing, the portions are generous, while the sides are straightforward, but everything comes together for a very satisfying Portuguese comfort meal, well seasoned and served in such a friendly environment. From the desserts menu we would highlight the warm custardy pastel de nata, which will be reminiscent of the traditional pastel de nata you can find in Lisbon, but also taken to the next level, served with a shot of frozen cream and cinnamon. Casa Chef Victor Felisberto holds Michelin recognition, including a past Bib Gourmand, so of course it won’t be the cheapest option in town, but we feel that it’s fairly priced for the quality.
📍Rua Francisco Ferreira da Mata 99, 2200-223 Abrantes
https://casachefvictorfelisberto.pt
Photo by Casa Chef Victor Felisberto
A Tasquinha do Gavetas
A Tasquinha do Gavetas is a casual spot where you can build a whole meal from small plates (petiscos), keeping things local and affordable. Think fried cuttlefish strips (choco frito), grilled pork belly slices (entremeada grelhada), roasted black pudding (morcela assada), baked farinheira sausage (farinheira assada), and steak bites sautéed with pickles (pica-pau) for that classic Portuguese tasca feel. There are seafood staples too, such as clams in a sauce made with garlic and cilantro (amêijoas à Bulhão Pato), octopus salad (salada de polvo), and a homestyle cod with shrimp nicely served with salad. If you want something heartier, they also do francesinha with fries, that is, Porto’s iconic sandwich with layers of meat, covered in beer and tomato sauce, and topped with melted cheese and, if you ask for it, a fried egg too. At A Tasquinha do Gavetas, the portions are honest, the prices are friendly, and the service moves quickly, so this is the kind of place locals visit for casual family lunches or head to with friends, simply for a round of beers with some unpretentious but delicious snacks.
📍Rua da Catraia 1, 2200-076 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/tasquinhadogavetas
Photo by DIGin
O Ramiro
Set on the ground floor of a house in the village of Rio de Moinhos, less than fifteen minutes drive from the centre of Abrantes, O Ramiro is a homely kind of eatery, where you’re likely to feel right at home. The room is simple but friendly, and the prices are down-to-earth. They do Portuguese regional cooking, and they do it well, with a menu filled with specialities that go from seafood to slow roasts. Look out for the monkfish rice (arroz de tamboril), a loose, garlicky rice stew where the fish stays firm; the grilled prawns (gambas grelhadas) with lemon and olive oil; and classic Portuguese cod plates (bacalhau) like baked cod with olive oil and garlic (bacalhau à lagareiro) or cod with a cornbread crust (bacalhau com broa). On the meat side, the oven-roasted duck (pato assado no forno) stands out, with beautifully crispy skin on the outside and juicy meat on the inside. But, if you come during the weekend, we would definitely recommend trying their hearty weekend roasts with potatoes or migas (garlicky bread mash with greens). O Ramiro is also one of the best places near Abrantes for vegetarians and vegans, as not only do they cater to plant-based diets, but actually prepare creative dishes, including Alentejo-style seitan (with a similar marinade to carne de porco à alentejana, pictured here), and baked tofu with non-dairy cream, reminiscent of bacalhau com natas. Coming with company is always a good idea, not only because you are likely to want to try more than one dish, but also because portions are generous enough to share. For dessert, stick to the Portuguese greatest hits, such as a proper chocolate mousse. If you feel adventurous, trust us and ask for olive oil and drizzle a bit on top, as it is not unheard of to top up an intense chocolate dessert with Portuguese olive oil.
📍Rua 1 de Maio Nr 5, 2200-783 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/restaurante.oramiro
Photo by Sofia in Wanderland via HappyCow
Restaurante Santa Isabel
Restaurante Santa Isabel is located on Rua Santa Isabel in the historic center of Abrantes, being a great option for a proper sit-down lunch or relaxed dinner, after a day of castle visiting and wandering around the old town. If you are deciding by one dish, make it the octopus fillets with soupy bean rice (filetes de polvo com arroz malandrinho de feijão). The rice stays loose and glossy, while the octopus comes super tender, in a way that it would convince octopus skeptics, which are often converted to polvo in Portugal anyway. They also do cod in a few ways, including baked with olive oil and garlic (bacalhau à lagareiro) and with a cornbread crust (bacalhau com broa), both great options if you want straightforward Portuguese flavors. Meat eaters tend to love the roast duck but, if you don’t feel like any of these heavier options, you can fill your table with incredible small plates like fried eels (enguias fritas), scrambled eggs with wild asparagus (ovos mexidos com espargos selvagens), or simple fried prawns (gambas fritas). Desserts are house style and rotate, but the chocolate mousse is the kind that disappears quickly, so if you’re in the mood for it you might want to reserve it when you first sit down, and not wait until the official time for dessert comes.
📍Rua Santa Isabel 12, 2200-393 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/restaurantesantaisabel
Photo by Essenciais do Tejo on Tripadvisor
Restaurante Típico Cascata
Restaurante Típico A Cascata opened its doors in 1978, founded by the couple Joaquim and Maria do Céu Mourato. Over the years, they have become a dining institution in Abrantes, because of the respect they show for the flavors of Beira Baixa and Ribatejo in their cooking. This is the type of restaurant that families go to for special gatherings, and where any food lover will truly get an authentic taste of the interior of Portugal. They serve dishes you’d rarely find in Lisbon or most of Portugal. Their pork stomach stuffed with seasoned meat and rice (bucho recheado, pictured here) is an old-school delicacy, prepared in a slow way until it reaches an almost melting texture. Maranhos à Beira Baixa are another specialty, consisting of parcels of goat or lamb with rice, mint, and spices, all wrapped in natural casing. If you’re feeling truly adventurous, don’t skip the house original, the miolada à Cascata, which is a savory pudding of bread, goat or lamb brains, eggs, and herbs, served with lemon, creamy and comforting for those who know what they’re in for. Of course, there’s plenty for the less adventurous, including their incredible oven-roasted kid goat with giblet rice and turnip greens (cabrito assado no forno com arroz de miúdos e grelos); roasted octopus with garlic olive oil (polvo à lagareiro), a classic countryside duck rice with a colorful salad (arroz de pato do campo), or a simple but well cooked beef steak. Their wine list focuses on labels from all across Portugal’s wine regions, but with special emphasis on regional producers. For anyone looking to understand the heart and soul of central Portuguese cooking, Cascata is an essential experience in Abrantes.
📍Rua Manuel Lopes Valente Júnior 19 A, 2200-260 Abrantes
https://cascata.pt
Photo by Cascata on Facebook
Decante Wine & Tapas
Set just off the main avenue in Abrantes, Decante is a modern wine bar and restaurant serving good wine and creative plates, in a fairly cosmopolitan atmosphere. Food here has been conceived mostly for sharing, with a menu built around petiscos and small plates inspired by both Portuguese and international ideas. Start with a board of Portuguese regional cheeses and cured meats (enchidos), then move on to things like octopus salad with pickled vegetables, beef tataki with a punchy sesame and soy dressing, and codfish tempura that gets a little lift from a fresh citrus aioli. There’s usually at least one house risotto, maybe wild mushrooms or seafood, plus things like tuna tartare, goat cheese bruschetta, or braised pork cheeks served with root vegetable purée. Vegetarian and vegan diners will find more options here than in most of Abrantes, and gluten-free dishes are clearly marked as well. The real draw, though, is the wine list, with dozens of options by the glass, with a smart focus on Portuguese producers, from the Douro to the Tejo and beyond. Staff are happy to recommend a pairing or let you taste something before you commit. Prices are a step up from the town’s classic tascas, but nothing outrageous for what’s on offer. You’re also not coming to Decante for a quick bite, but more for an experience where you have plenty of time to linger, sip and keep snacking.
📍Rua Prof. Raimundo Mota, 2200-171 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/decante.wine.tapas
Photo by Decante on Facebook
Restaurante Tulipa
Located in a quieter area away from the busier center of Abrantes, Restaurante Tulipa has been serving locals for decades with great hospitality and exceptional cuisine. The focus of their menu goes towards classic Portuguese dishes that are consensual across generations. Expect hearty soups, golden salt cod fritters (pastéis de bacalhau), and garlicky grilled pork steaks (febras de porco grelhadas). There’s almost always a good cod dish, including creamy salt cod au gratin (bacalhau com natas) or shredded cod scrambled with eggs, potatoes, and onions (bacalhau à Brás). During the weekend, they’re known to serve home style slow-cooked stews and an excellent oven-roasted chicken. The sweet dishes menu is a mix of traditional Portuguese desserts and international options. We’d suggest opting for something local like serradura, a creamy, layered mousse with sweetened whipped cream and crumbled tea biscuits, served chilled in a glass; or baba de camelo, which is a silky caramel mousse made from condensed milk and eggs. They also have the less common torta algarvia, which is a soft almond and egg yolk roll typical of the Algarve, very rarely spotted this far north. If you prefer to stick with something you may already know, they have different cheesecakes and even a lovely strawberry pavlova.
📍N118 969, 2205-331 Pego, Abrantes
https://restaurantetulipa.pt
Photo by Mario M on Tripadvisor
Lá Vai Alho Restaurante
Lá Vai Alho is located just beyond the main core of town and signals “good times ahead” before you even open the menu. This is everything but a formal stiff place, with bright walls, mismatched colors, plenty of laughter, and the feeling that someone is always celebrating something here. The kitchen focuses on Portuguese classics and the kind of cooking that makes you want to loosen your belt. Don’t skip the starters and indulge in garlicky prawns in olive oil (gambas ao alhinho), roasted chouriço, or clams in white wine sauce. For mains, the grilled meats are what this place is best known for, including beef steak, different cuts of pork, mixed grills, and juicy bitoque (thin steak with a fried egg), usually served with home-cut fries in proper, rustic Portuguese style. Fish fans will find grilled golden bream (dourada grelhada) or oven-baked cod (bacalhau no forno), always generously portioned. The end bill won’t scare you, as Lá Vai Alho is a mid-range restaurant that offers great value for the experience you get.
📍Rua Nossa Sra. da Conceição 6 r/c, 2200-392 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/lavaialho_restaurante
Photo by Lá Vai Alho on Tripadvisor
O Alcaide
Close to Abrantes’ medieval castle, O Alcaide serves the sort of meal that you may end up craving after climbing up and down the town’s winding old streets. The menu here is a tribute to Ribatejano cuisine, that is the cooking of the Ribatejo region, the flatlands in central Portugal. At O Alcaide that means local staples like sopa de peixe, a warming fish soup thick with rice and the day’s catch, along with grilled river fish or oven-baked cod. Meat lovers are covered too, with slow-cooked beef cheeks, roasted pork, and a house specialty of duck rice, topped with deliciously smoky chouriço. Desserts are homemade and classic, including Abrantes’ signature baked custard (tigelada), almond tart, and the essential chocolate mousse rotating in and out. For anyone who wants to indulge in a great meal without leaving Abrantes’ very historic centre, O Alcaide is a great option.
📍Rua das Barreiras do Castelo 1, 2200-389 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/p/O-Alcaide-Tapas-Bar-100087741604233
Photo O Alcaide on Facebook
Crispean’s – Ermida by Rui Reis
If you are interested in Portuguese craft beers and travel to Abrantes, a stop at Crispean’s is in order. It started as a family project by brewmaster Rui Reis (pictured here), which has meanwhile grown into a recognized artisanal brand, as well as a brewpub that attracts fans from across the region who want to sample unique beers right where they’re made. The setting itself makes the visit worth it, as the brewpub is housed on the grounds of the old hermitage (ermida). But Crispean’s is still best known for its lineup of craft beers, including pale ales, IPAs, porters, and seasonal brews, many of them available only at the brewery or in limited release. There are regular tasting flights, guided by staff who are genuinely passionate about beer, and occasional events pairing local products (cheeses, charcuterie, and even desserts) with house brews. Beyond the beer, the food menu is meant for sharing, with artisanal sausages, cured meats, rustic breads, and a changing slate of bar snacks and light plates. Outdoor tables catch the sun on warm days, and inside, things get lively on weekends with live music and community gatherings. For anyone curious about the growing world of Portuguese microbreweries, this is certainly a stop worth making.
📍Rua da Fonte de São José, 2200-036 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/p/Cerveja-Ermida-100057101574623
Photo by Médio Tejo
Best bakeries and dessert shops in Abrantes
Pastelaria Tágide Gourmet
If you’re wondering what makes Abrantes such a popular destination for sweet lovers in Portugal, plan to spend some time at Pastelaria Tágide Gourmet during your visit to find out. This modern pastry shop is a great stop for locals to grab a quick coffee and cake but, with a little more time, we’d love for you to indulge in local convent sweets mindfully. Start with tigeladas, the baked egg-and-milk custards Abrantes is famous for, at Tágide made in traditional clay dishes, with a caramelized top. This is also a great place to try palha de Abrantes, a unique nest of sweetened egg threads, a delicate looking convent sweet you’d rarely see outside of this region. They have even innovated, creating a French macaron filled with palha de Abrantes. Alongside these classics, Tágide fills its counter with a rotation of other Portuguese pastelaria specialities, including almond tart, pastéis de nata, and seasonal cakes, all baked daily.
📍Largo Padre Catarino 2, 2205-050 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/pastelariatagidegourmet
Photo by Jornal de Abrantes
Confeitaria Palha De Abrantes
This pastelaria is the home base for one of the region’s most distinctive convent sweets, palha de Abrantes. These golden nests look a lot like egg threads (fios de ovos), a classic Portuguese confection found in Christmas sweets and cake decorations, and that have even traveled as far as Thailand under Portuguese influence, where they are found today as foi thong. But while fios de ovos are fine threads of egg yolk boiled in syrup and often used as a garnish, palha de Abrantes takes the same basic idea, but turns it into a full-on dessert. To make palha de Abrantes, the egg threads are heaped into loose, bright yellow nests and then pressed together with a touch of syrup, crushed almonds, all perfumed with cinnamon and lemon zest. The top egg threads are torched lightly for a little crunch, which contrasts beautifully with the delicate juicy texture underneath. Beyond the star attraction, Confeitaria Palha de Abrantes is also known for other regional specialties like small rustic biscuits with walnuts and local honey (broas de mel e noz); bolotas e ferraduras, which are dense almond cookies shaped like acorns and horseshoes, with a hint of citrus or spice; and classic almond cookies (almendrados). If you’re looking to taste something beyond a typical pastel de nata, don’t miss out on these local Abrantes sweets.
📍Praça Barão da Batalha 32, 2200-365 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/p/Confeitaria-Palha-de-Abrantes-100057736326528
Photo by Jornal de Abrantes
Sabores do Ti Pereira
Sabores do Ti Pereira is a part of a family-run group that has grown into one of the reference bakery brands in central Portugal, with 17 shops in the region. The name comes from the family surname of Manuel Pereira, who started the business with his children more than two decades ago. The Abrantes shops follow the same formula that made the brand grow, that is, a big counter full of classic pastries and a good range of Portuguese bread. On the sweet side, you will find all the usual suspects of a central Portugal pastelaria, such as pastéis de nata, puff pastry mil-folhas, bolas de Berlim filled with egg jam, simple sponge rolls, and seasonal fruit tarts. Of course Sabores do Ti Pereira doesn’t forget about the local identity, also selling tigelada de Abrantes and palha de Abrantes. This is also where locals come for everyday Portuguese bread, including crusty carcaças and papo-secos, denser rustic loaves, corn bread (broa), and other regional wheat breads. There are also small savoury snacks ready to grab with a coffee, like tiny chicken pies (empadas), puffs with various fillings, and croissants which you can ask to fill with ham and cheese. Prices are very down-to-earth as it would be expected at a traditional Portuguese pastelaria.
📍Praça Barão da Batalha 32, 2200-365 Abrantes
www.facebook.com/p/Confeitaria-Palha-de-Abrantes-100057736326528
Photo by Grupo Pereira
Gelados Lis
Churning ice cream since 1976, Gelados Lis is Abrantes’ classic gelataria in the historic centre. This is the kind of place many locals grew up with and now bring their own kids to. The recipe comes from the original founder, Mr. Paulo Dias, and has been kept alive by the current family owners, who still work with a short list of ingredients, such as milk, eggs, sugar and plenty of real fruit, instead of stabilisers and mixes. As for flavors, this is where you go beyond the usual vanilla or chocolate. Their fruit sorbets are a good starting point, especially tangerine and melon when they are in season, as they’re tangy without being overly sweet. There are also creamier, old-school choices like hazelnut or mixed nuts (frutos secos), and a house flavour inspired by palha de Abrantes, which puts the idea of egg threads and almonds into ice cream form. During festive seasons, they play with Portuguese traditions too, serving a bolo rei ice cream as a nod to the classic Christmas cake. If you have space, pair a scoop with one of their warm croissants or a coffee for a very Abrantes-style sweet break.
📍Largo Dr. Ramiro Guedes 2, 2200-362 Abrantes
www.instagram.com/gelados.lis
Photo by Gelados Lis on Facebook
If you enjoyed reading this article, browse our blog for other Travel Guides for Food Lovers in destinations near Lisbon, and follow Taste of Lisboa on Instagram for quick tips meant to improve your explorations of Portugal through the lens of food and wine.
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