The unofficial rules of pastelaria etiquette: how to order like a local

A pastelaria defies easy classification. It’s not quite a café, although you can sit down with a cup of coffee and linger as long as you like. It’s not exactly a bakery either, though the counter is stacked with typically Portuguese pastries. And calling it a snack bar or lunch joint misses the point entirely. A pastelaria is all of these things and visiting a pastelaria often is, for sure, something many Portuguese do.

The pastelaria occupies a particular role in Lisbon, as well as in many other Portuguese cities and even medium sized towns. This is where the community often gathers, where co-workers might decompress after a stressful morning, where grandparents treat grandchildren to a sweet after school, or even where teenagers try to look cool sipping a soda.

Feature photo by Lisbon City Guide

Photo by NIT Amadora

Most pastelarias open early, at around 7AM or so, to catch the commuter crowd. While many close by early evening, during the daytime they operate continuously and keep adapting to the clientele’s needs throughout the day. There’s a fluid transition between Portuguese style breakfast, mid-morning snacks, lunch, and lanche, which is the mid afternoon ritual similar to Swedish fika, usually consisting of coffee and a pastry or a sandwich. It’s very rare to find pastelarias open at night but, during lunch hours, many do serve home-style lunches at very inviting prices.

Strangely, it’s still rare for pastelarias to have a printed menu, at least that’s what happens when you walk into the more old school establishments. The options aren’t always labelled, no one waits to be seated, and no one really explains how it all works. The assumption is that you know what to do, or that you’ve been here before. Of course this is true for locals, but not quite fair for foreign visitors. And that’s why we’d like to take you through the essentials, so that the next time you visit a Portuguese pastelaria you can order [almost] like a local.

Photo by Mercado da Carne

What do Portuguese pastelarias serve

Even though most pastelarias don’t have a printed menu, the truth is that most Portuguese folks would know how to order, as these establishments are incredibly consistent. There may be some variations depending on the owners or even the region, but most of the items are usually the same.

One of the first things you’ll notice when walking into a pastelaria is the sweet counter, with plenty of sugary and custard filled options. At the centre of it all, almost always, is the pastel de nata. But Portugal’s most iconic sweet is in good company, surrounded by dozens of equally enticing national favourites such as Berliners (bolas de Berlim) mille-feuille (mil-folhas), triangles of puff pastry with almond and egg jam filling (jesuítas), palmieres, triangles of sponge cake with egg jam (guardanapos), amongst many other national and regional specialities. 

Photo by NIT

But pastelarias aren’t all about the sugary dough, as they usually also sell a great variety of typically Portuguese savory snacks, which locals call salgados: crescent-shaped turnovers filled with either minced meat or shrimp with bechamel (rissóis), puff pastry with various fillings (folhados), deep fried breaded meat rolls (croquetes), individual chicken pies (empadas), the Portuguese take on samosas (chamuças), and codfish fritters with mashed potato and parsley (pastéis de bacalhau). These snacks are great for when you need a quick bite in between meals, and you may not necessarily crave a sweet.

Photo by Revista Business Portugal

You can also visit a pastelaria to buy bread, as they keep it to go as well as to make the items they serve, including buttered rolls (pão com manteiga), cheese and ham sandwiches (sandes de queijo and sandes de fiambre), the beloved ham and cheese toastie (tosta mista), or even steak sandwiches (prego no pão), which you can add mustard to taste.

But perhaps the most surprising offering in a pastelaria is the prato do dia, or dish of the day. While some pastelarias do more strictly sell coffee, sweets and savories, it’s not at all rare that they also prepare daily lunches. These are straightforward, home-style dishes which you can cook in big batches, such as a soup of the day (sopa do dia), typical Portuguese rice dishes (like duck rice – arroz de pato), empadão, beans and cured meats stew (feijoada), just to name a few.

When it comes to drinks, coffee is quite probably the most ordered thing at a pastelaria. But you’ll also find fresh juices, particularly orange juice squeezed on the spot (sumo de laranja natural), along with a standard selection of soft drinks, bottled iced teas, plain and flavored waters, and even beer. If the pastelaria in question serves lunch, they’ll for sure also stock some wines. 

How to order at a Portuguese pastelaria

Don’t expect to walk into a Portuguese pastelaria and be handed a menu. At the most, some of them have a board on the wall highlighting some options, but this isn’t always the case. Almost everything that’s available is out in the open, usually on display at the counter, ready for you to point at it. But the problem is that many of these options, sweet and savory, are not labeled. So, unless you are familiar with the items, you may still not know what to choose. And if you have any dietary restrictions, it’ll be even harder as something may look appealing, but you’d truly not know what’s on the inside, unless you know how to ask.

The daily specials and their respective prices are usually written down somewhere, very often by hand, by the counter or even the window shop, working as a marketing tool which may make those passing by walk into the establishment during lunch hours. Don’t ever feel shy to ask the staff as, often, the main name of the dish may be written down, but you’d still want to know what the recipes consist of, or what the side dishes are all about. For instance, when it comes to grilled fish, you may see the dish listed as “robalo grelhado”, simply grilled seabass. Most Portuguese would know that, by default, the fish will be served with boiled potatoes and some greens, such as broccoli, green beans and/or carrots. But no one expects visitors to know this by default. So, when in doubt, simply ask. If you want to know what’s for lunch, you can simply say, “O que é que têm hoje para comer?”, that is, “what’s there for lunch today?”. Chances are the staff will point towards someone already eating so that you could have a glimpse of what their food looks like.

Pastelarias are built on efficiency and familiarity, and that’s part of the reason why menus are almost seen as unnecessary in this kind of set-up. Even though we recognize that, in practical terms, as the clientele is today more heterogeneous than ever, this may need to change soon, and in urban centres we do observe more and more businesses adapting to the new realities, making their offerings (and prices!) more obvious to those who’d like to order.

Photo by Time Out Lisboa

Visiting a pastelaria and ordering like a local

At most pastelarias, there are two main zones: the counter (ao balcão) and the tables (à mesa).  Locals tend to go to the counter when they’re in a rush, which, in the morning, is practically everyone. It’s where you stand shoulder to shoulder with strangers, drink your espresso (bica) in two sips, maybe nibble a pastel de nata or sandwich, and head out five minutes later. If you’re not in a hurry and want to sit down, help yourself to a table. There’s no need to ask, as you can simply walk in and grab any table that’s free. In some modern places, especially in big cities, even when you sit down, you’re still expected to order and pay by the counter, and you can either bring your items with you to the table, usually carrying them on a tray, or they may serve them to you whenever ready – the staff will let you know what you’re supposed to do. In more traditional pastelarias, you can usually order at the table and be served while sitting down, but you may still need to pay at the counter when you decide it’s time to go. In some places, if you’re waiting at the table for someone to bring you a check, hours can go by. On that note, as usual, tips in Portugal are certainly not mandatory but always appreciated. Some locals round up their check or leave some coins, but tipping in pastelarias is even less expected than in restaurants.

Generally speaking, don’t expect a lot of pleasantries when you walk up to the counter to order. People won’t be rude as such, but the rhythm tends to be fast, so be ready to order when your turn comes, especially if it’s the rush hour, and working people are also in line to grab a quick coffee before heading to work. Don’t be surprised if someone places their order while you’re still deciding. Locals are fast, and the staff will circle back to you when you’re ready. If you’re pointing at something from the pastry counter, just say “Queria este, por favor”, that is, “I’d like this one, please”.  If it’s lunchtime and you’re after the dish of the day, just ask “Qual é o prato do dia?”, to enquire what’s the daily special. 

Photo by Time Out Lisboa

Don’t expect your order to be written down. It’s common for staff to remember everything by heart, even if your group orders five different items. Trust the system and don’t worry if you feel like no one is keeping track of what you consumed. They are. When it’s time to pay, just walk up to the register and say what you had. In small neighborhood pastelarias, there’s a sense of accountability and mutual trust that still governs these interactions, as a kind of small and quiet kind of social contract.

As for when to go to a pastelaria, it depends on your goal. Early morning (7AM – 9.30AM) is for commuters and regulars, and tends to be the busiest. Mid-morning (10AM – 11.30AM) is when people start showing up for a snack and a chat. Lunch begins around noon and peaks by 1PM. If you arrive much later than that, some of the dishes of the day may no longer be available, and the options will probably be more limited. Between 4PM and 5PM is prime lanche time, featuring more coffee, sweets, maybe a savory, and light conversation. At 7PM many pastelarias begin to close and while some remain open longer, don’t count on them for dinner, unless you’d like to grab an early grilled sandwich or whatever is left on the counter. Even the soup of the day is usually no longer being served at these hours. As some pastelarias do indeed stay open late, folks from the neighborhood may still visit for a customary espresso after grabbing dinner at home, as this is a great time to unwind and catch up with the neighbours, something that certainly does happen in smaller towns, but not in the bigger cities like Lisbon.

Essential pastelaria vocabulary

If there’s one thing guaranteed to make you feel more like a local in a Portuguese pastelaria, it’s speaking the local language. Of course no one will expect you to speak perfect Portuguese, but knowing just a few key words and phrases can take your pastelaria experience to a whole new level.

Photo by Marketeer

Coffee

Coffee is the foundation of any pastelaria experience, but ordering it can be tricky if you’re expecting the international standard featuring cappuccinos or flat whites. Portuguese coffee culture has its own lexicon:

• Bica: An espresso. In Lisbon, this is the default short, strong coffee. Served in a tiny cup, usually drunk in under 30 seconds. In the north, the equivalent would be um cimbalino or, simply, um café. 
• Café cheio: A longer espresso (literally “full coffee”), for those who want more volume but, caffeine wise, the same strength.
• Café curto: A shorter, more concentrated espresso. This is the equivalent to an Italian ristretto and, therefore, here in Portugal, also popularly known as uma italiana.
• Café pingado: An espresso with just a drop of milk. Like a tinier cortado.
• Meia de leite: Half coffee, half milk, served in a larger cup. Similar to a cappuccino, but without foam.
• Galão: A tall glass of milk with a shot of coffee, usually served in the morning. Portugal’s answer to a latte, with roughly one part coffee, two parts milk.
• Descafeinado: Decaf. Can come in bica or galão style, just specify your preference.
• Café com gelo: Portugal’s take on an iced coffee. Don’t expect anything fancy as you’ll normally be handed a regular espresso and a glass full of ice, for you to pour the hot drink over the rocks and enjoy it cooler.

Photo by Spring Talks

Bread and sandwiches

Bread is a staple in any pastelaria. Knowing how to order it will take you far, whether you’re after a simple breakfast or something more filling.

• Pão com manteiga: A bread roll sliced and buttered. A minimalist classic, which is a morning favorite.
• Torrada: Toasted bread, usually “drenched” in melted butter and cut into three strips. If you don’t specify, they’ll use thick sliced bread, like Wonder Bread. If you mention “com pão saloio” or they give you that option, it means your toast will be made using slices of sturdier rustic loaf.
• Sandes de queijo / de fiambre: A simple bread roll with either cheese or ham.
• Sandes mista: A sandwich with both ham and cheese, which may or may not also include some butter.
• Tosta mista: A toasted ham and melted cheese sandwich, pastelaria style comfort food.
• Prego no pão: A thin garlicky steak sandwich on a soft roll.
• Bifana: Marinated pork, hot and juicy in a bread roll. Usually available at lunchtime or, at the most, mid afternoon / early evening. Not a given in all pastelarias, but many will indeed have it.
• Sandes de ovo: While it literally translates as egg sandwich, expect your bread roll to be stuffed with a thin omelette and, at the most, some lettuce. No sauce.
• Sandes de panado: Breaded meat sandwich, sometimes, with lettuce. If it’s not specified it’ll usually be pork, but it could also be chicken or other meats.

Photo by A Padaria Portuguesa

Personalize your order by mentioning:

• Com manteiga / sem manteiga: With or without butter.
• Em pão de forma / pão integral / pão de mistura: On sliced bread / whole wheat / darker style of bread with both wheat and rye flours.
• Torrado / aquecido: Toasted / warmed up.

Pastries and sweets

While there are hundreds of regional pastries across Portugal, we have extensively written about the ones you’re most likely to encounter in a Lisbon pastelaria. Read our suggestions on the Portuguese pastries you should try, besides the obvious pastel de nata.

Lunch and daily specials

If you’re showing up around noon, these phrases might help you navigate the lunchtime crowd:

• Prato do dia: Dish of the day. Usually written somewhere, along with the prices.
• Sopa do dia: Soup of the day. Nearly always available, and more often than not it’ll be a vegetable soup.
• Com arroz / batata cozida / batatas fritas / salada: With rice / boiled potatoes / fries / salad.
• Para comer aqui / para levar: For here or to go.

Bonus phrases

• Bom dia / boa tarde: Greet “good morning” or “good afternoon” when you enter.
• Queria…: “I would like…” Polite, useful, works in almost every situation.
• Pode aquecer, por favor?: Can you heat it up, please?
• É tudo, obrigado/a.: That’s all, thank you.
• A conta, se faz favor: The bill, please.
• Pago já / pago no fim: I’ll pay now / I’ll pay at the end.

Photo by Pedro S Bello on Wikipedia

When you are in Lisbon, or anywhere in Portugal, we’d highly recommend you to visit a pastelaria. You can go there to get your caffeine fix or to feed yourself. But, furthermore, you’d also be participating in one of Portugal’s simplest, most democratic pleasures, mixing good food and a certain feeling of belonging.

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