Peniche travel guide for food lovers
Just about an hour north of Lisbon, Peniche is a popular summer destination and an easy day trip that could easily be extended, to the very least, into a full weekend of fun. This coastal town is known for its beaches and powerful waves so, in recent years, similarly to Nazaré, it has become a go-to destination for surfers. But there’s more to Peniche than surfing! Way before the cool kids started showing up with the boards under their arms, Peniche was already a fishing town with a laid-back pace of life, popular for having some of the best seafood you’ll find on the Portuguese coast. So you may come here to ride some waves, walk around the port soaking up some history, or to eat a caldeirada, but, either way, we have a feeling you’re going to be very happy in Peniche.
Getting there from Lisbon is a breeze: take the A8 highway if you’re driving, or hop on a bus from Sete Rios station. There are direct routes with Rede Expressos that’ll get you there in about 1h30. Once in town, everything is close enough to explore on foot, or eventually by bike, which you can easily rent once you get there.
Photo by Andy Bates
Photo by Center of Portugal
As Peniche is a small town, at least as compared when coming from Lisbon, you’ll probably feel that life there moves at a slower, more relaxed pace. In Bairro do Visconde, a traditional fishing neighborhood, you’ll see everyday scenes like locals gathering and chatting by their homes. The area is known for its simple, colorful houses and coastal views, and we honestly think there is no better introduction to Peniche than walking around the bairro just soaking up the general vibes of the place.
If you feel like keeping on walking, head out to Cabo Carvoeiro and do so along the cliffs, where you’ll find one of Portugal’s oldest lighthouses, Farol do Cabo Carvoeiro, and great views of the Atlantic. On clear days, you can even spot the Berlengas Islands in the distance. Make sure to stop by the Varanda de Pilatos lookout point, a spot tucked between limestone rocks that offers a fantastic ocean view.
Photo by Expedia
Fortaleza de Peniche (pictured above) will be particularly interesting for those into history. This former political prison turned museum tells the story of Portugal’s struggle for democracy under Salazar’s regime. It’s not light stuff, but it’s important to understand Portugal and its people and, as a sort of bonus, the views from the fort walls are some of the best in town.
Photo by Gazeta das Caldas
Where you can truly feel what Peniche is all about, though, may be by the harbour. If you come early enough, you may still be able to watch fishermen unload the morning’s catch. Later on in the day, you may still see the same men, but now deservingly enjoying their afternoon away with a chilled drink in hand and perhaps even munching on some grilled sardines as the small boats keep moving up and down because of the waves by the shore. It’s precisely from here that you can catch a boat to Berlengas.
Photo by BerlengaTur
Located about 15 kilometers (just a little over 9 miles) off the coast, the Berlengas are a small archipelago made up of three main islets: Berlenga Grande, Estelas, and Farilhões-Forcados. They’re a protected nature reserve, meaning only a limited number of visitors are allowed each day. If you’re looking for wild nature, clear waters, and total peace and quiet (with zero beach bar vibes), this is the spot. The main island, Berlenga Grande, is the only one you can visit, and you can get there using the services of the few different companies that run regular trips there, especially from May through September. It’s recommended to book ahead, especially in summer, and you must register on the BerlengasPass platform before your visit. The local authorities cap access to the island at 550 people per day to protect the fragile ecosystem.
Photo by Quinta do Molinu
Once you’re there, you’ll find a handful of hiking trails that crisscross the rocky terrain and lead to unforgettable viewpoints over the Atlantic. The most famous sight on the island is the Forte de São João Baptista, a dramatic 17th-century stone fortress perched on a small islet and connected to Berlenga Grande by a narrow causeway. You can explore the ruins and imagine what life was like when the fort was used to defend the Portuguese coast from pirates.
For nature lovers, there’s excellent bird watching, as this is an important nesting site for seabirds like puffins, gulls, and the rare Cory’s shearwater. If you’re into marine life, bring your snorkel: the waters here are protected and incredibly clear, with plenty of fish and underwater rock formations. You can also arrange guided kayaking tours or boat rides that take you into sea caves and along the base of the cliffs.
Facilities on the island are basic, so we’d recommend bringing your own water, snacks, and lunch (unless you visit the one and only restaurant we recommend below), especially if you plan on hiking or spending the whole day. There are no shops, no beach vendors, and definitely no convenience stores, which is all part of the charm. Last but not least, as you’d probably expect, you can also swim in Berlengas, namely at Carreiro do Mosteiro, which is the island’s small beach, with beautiful turquoise water and smooth rocks. It’s not huge, but the scenery is unforgettable.
Photo by Surfline
If you’d like to head to the beach but won’t make it out all the way to Berlengas, the entire town of Peniche is practically surrounded by beaches, from the dramatic cliffs of Praia da Consolação, to the gentle crescent of Praia do Baleal, to the adrenaline-pumping barrels at Supertubos (pictured above), home to some of Europe’s best surf breaks and a stage for the annual Rip Curl Pro competition.
Photo by Ocean Adventure
Connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, there’s also Praia do Baleal, which offers wide sandy beaches, powerful waves, and a more relaxed energy that permeates the local beach bars and surf schools. Even if you’ve never touched a board, if you feel adventurous, you could even book a surfing lesson here.
Photo by Mygon
Putting the focus on Peniche’s food culture, as it’d be easy to anticipate as this is a traditional fishing town, the local cuisine is all about seafood. Furthermore, Peniche’s most iconic old-time recipes reflect the town’s working-class ingenuity. Thing about comforting dishes like caldeirada de Peniche, the iconic fisherman’s stew made with whatever was fresh and available; raia de molhinho, skate fish served with a punchy garlic sauce; or alfaquique com açorda de ovas, a lesser known delicacy made with local fish and fish-roe bread porridge. For the curious, there’s quelme seco, a salted and dried fish still drying on street racks like an edible time capsule; and sequinho de robalo, a rustic recipe born in the tascas where fishermen once divided up the catch.
And, of course, we couldn’t forget the sweets, including the almond based pastries with rich yolk fillings known as amigos de Peniche (or Penichenses – pictured above); renda doce, which are biscuits with lace patterns inspired by the region’s famed bobbin lace; or the whimsical ossinhos de Peniche, consisting of puff pastries shaped like little bones and dusting with plenty of icing sugar.
No matter what brings you to town, you will probably need to recharge energies at some point and, for that, we recommend visiting some of the best restaurants in Peniche:
The best Portuguese food restaurants in Peniche
Tasca do Joel
Back in 1982, Tasca do Joel was little more than a spot where local fishermen could roast their catch, grab a glass of wine, and swap stories. These days, it’s a full fledged restaurant and, more than that, it’s become a Peniche institution, popular for its seafood and for having the best wine selection in town. You’ll find it just outside the center, near Cabo Carvoeiro, with an impressive gourmet shop at the entrance, where we highly recommend you browse and shop on your way out to get some edible souvenirs from Portugal. Owner Jael Martins is responsible for a menu packed with classic flavors and innovative updates. Great starters include octopus salad, cowries (búzios à Tasca), and saucy chunks of fresh tuna (pica pau de atum). If goose barnacles (percebes) are in season, don’t hesitate. For mains, highlights include the grouper pasta stew (massada de garoupa), the very local rockfish stew known as sequinho de cancarro, the tempura of John Dory with Carolino rice, and the always popular bacalhau à Tasca, consisting of fried cod with onions and oven roasted smashed potatoes (batatas a murro). Meat lovers aren’t forgotten at a Tasca do Joel: they can order the pork and bacon skewers and Portuguese style sirloin or, on Sundays, the cozido à portuguesa. Desserts are also to die for. The doce à Joel, an apple and meringue pudding, is a house signature, and the Joel Rocher, a cheeky take on Ferrero Rocher, is pure indulgence. If you only eat in one place in Peniche, make it this one!
📍Rua do Lapadusso 73, 2520-370 Peniche
Photo by D Wan Guest Houses
Xakra Beach Bar
Set right on Praia do Molhe Leste since 2006, next to the legendary Supertubos, Xakra Beach Bar is the kind of place you dream about when planning a beach holiday. It looks like a laid back beach shack, but it’s also a seriously good seafood spot, where you can eat right by the sand, while enjoying the views. The menu focuses on Portugueses classics like seafood rice (arroz de marisco) [incluir aqui link para novo artigo sobre melhores pratos de arroz, fish stew (caldeirada), whelks (búzios), or oven baked octopus with cornbread (polvo com broa). Those craving a lighter option can order a fish soup (sopa de peixe), a burger, or browse some few veggie options. If you plan and order ahead arranging with owner Maurício, the salt baked fish (peixe ao sal) is a real treat.
📍Praia do Molhe Leste, 2520-000 Peniche
www.instagram.com/xakrabeachbar
Photo by Brose Nose
Marginal Restaurante
Tucked along Peniche’s coast with sweeping views over the Atlantic, and even the Berlenga Islands on clear days, Marginal is one of those restaurants that feels like an oasis in the middle of a more industrial looking area. Walk into Marginal, go up to the first floor, and you’ll be able to enjoy extraordinary food with amazing views. The menu brings together Portuguese tradition with plenty of contemporary touches. You’ll find ultra fresh fish and seafood, from garlic prawns to tuna tartare with mango, avocado, and soy-lime, alongside perfectly grilled Iberian pork, generous steaks, and seasonal sides. There’s a clear respect for local ingredients, with creative touches that enhance rather than overpower them. The restaurant is family run, and you feel it in the attentive service and thoughtful details. Portions are generous, the vibe is relaxed but quite polished, and if you’re lucky enough to book around sunset, the view alone is worth the trip.
📍Estr. Marginal Norte, 2520-605 Peniche
www.instagram.com/marginalrestaurante_peniche
Photo by Marginal on TripAdvisor
O Farol
For an authentic and uncomplicated meal in Peniche, O Farol is a great choice. They are all about traditional Portuguese comfort food, with big portions, friendly service, and prices that make it easy to come back again and again. The main focus of the menu is grilled fish and seafood, with options varying according to the catch of the day. We recommend starting with crispy fried cuttlefish strips (choco frito), and then trying the fresh fish with a side of local brothy rice, known as arroz malandrinho. Whatever you eat, do not skip desserts, namely the heavenly Portuguese rice pudding (arroz doce), which is ultra creamy, with a generous dusting of cinnamon on top, and just the right amount of sweet.
📍Rua da Cruz das Almas 82B, 2520-200 Peniche
www.facebook.com/ofarolpeniche
Photo by Cardapio
Marisqueira Mirandum
If you’re serious about seafood, Marisqueira Mirandum should be at the top of your list. Run by the same family since 1981 and located in the heart of Peniche, this marisqueira has built its name on the freshest fish and shellfish, sourced daily from the local fish auction and kept live in their own tanks until it hits your plate. The house specialty are the goose barnacles (percebes), sourced in season from the Berlengas Islands, by sea harvesters (mariscadores) who risk it all on the rocks to bring back this prized delicacy, thus explaining the steep price of this top Portuguese seafood. At Mirandum you’ll also find velvet crab (navalheiras) or brown crab (sapateira) and, of course, their legendary mariscada, served in generous portions for one to four people. If you don’t know where to start, go classic with some garlic prawns (camarão à guilho) and a cold beer. Then start moving into the heavier options, like the clams in tangy sauce (amêijoas à Bulhão Pato), the grilled lobster, or a simpler option (but not because of that any less delicious) of the fish of the day, selected personally by the owner Nuno João at the dock. Finish with the delícia Mirandum, a signature dessert featuring West Coast Rocha pear ice cream, and you’ll understand why locals and those of us who visit often love this place.
📍Rua Heróis do Ultramar 23, 2520-294 Peniche
www.instagram.com/marisqueiramirandum
Photo by Expresso
Wine Bar Sabores & Peripécias
Sabores & Peripécia is an intimate wine bar in Peniche where you can enjoy an evening of good food and, of course, even better wine. They have an incredible wine list and the staff will be happy to guide you. On the food side of things, the menu is built around elegant small plates to snack on as you sample different wines. From beautifully plated cheese and charcuterie boards, to Portuguese petiscos with a twist. We would definitely recommend the cured tuna (muxama), which is to tuna fish what ham is to pork. But also the octopus carpaccio, the anchovies platter, and the Iberian black pork alheira. Sometimes, the kitchen also prepares heavier options like a wonderful slow roasted pork knuckle (joelho de porco assado). Eat, drink, and be merry!
📍Rua José Estevão 8, 2520-466 Peniche
https://saboreseperipecias.com
Photo by Sabores & Peripécias
Restaurante O Sebastião
O Sebastião serves some of the best modern Portuguese food in town. The menu offers familiar Portuguese flavors, but with thoughtful twists that showcase the creativity of the chef behind the stove. From the get-go, the petiscos menu is full of gems: fried small sardines (petingas), garlicky shrimp, stuffed bread, pan fried mussels, and scrambled eggs with farinheira, which are all ideal for sharing. For mains, the tuna steak with shrimp sauce is incredible, and so are dishes like fried John Dory with savory bread pudding (alfaquique with açorda), braised pork loin with mushroom risotto, and lamb chops with chestnut purée and pomegranate. This is certainly not your usual tasca fare, but it feels surprisingly Portuguese, even more so with the warm and generous hospitality the team delivers.
📍Rua Ramiro de Matos Bilhau 8, 2520-486 Peniche
www.instagram.com/osebastiao.rest
Photo by O Sebastião on TripAdvisor
Toca do Texugo
At Toca do Texugo, the concept is simple: you don’t book a table, you book your fish. This casual spot loved by locals is all about grilled seafood done right. The vibe is more like going to a loud family member’s home than to an actual restaurant. It’s walk-in only, first come, first served, so we’d recommend getting there early, especially if you want your pick of the catch. Set near the harbor, this is where Peniche’s fishing town spirit really comes alive. The menu is straightforward: choose your fish from the day’s catch, often featuring sea bass, squid and sardines, and it’ll be grilled to perfection and served with salad and boiled potatoes. If you’re up for a tip, it all goes down better with a nice pitcher of the house’s chilled white wine. The decor is not fancy, nor is the platting, but sometimes the owner will come out and perform fado songs, a treat not even the fanciest restaurants in Peniche deliver! This is authentic Portuguese coastal dining at its best.
📍Caminho do Outeiro, Estr. Marginal Norte, 2520-217 Peniche
Photo by DIG-IN
Restaurante D’Raiz
Located behind Peniche’s Igreja de São Pedro, Restaurante D’Raiz might look unassuming from the outside, but it’s a wonderful choice for dining out in Peniche. As the name clearly implies (literally translating as “from the root”), here, everything is made from scratch, using mostly local and seasonal ingredients. The menu has been designed by chef Alexandre Pereira, who holds a master’s in international cuisine. The dishes reflect a balance of Portuguese tradition and international influences. You’ll find creations like ceviche, moqueca de peixe, and fried cuttlefish, alongside comforting plates such as braised beef cheeks (bochechas de vaca), monkfish rice (arroz de tamboril), and Brazilian beef cut picanha for the meat lovers. As it happens in many places across Peniche, the fresh fish is always a good option, usually grilled to order and served with a house salad and potatoes. Ask the chef or the staff for a recommendation, and you’ll likely get a personal walkthrough of the day’s catch. It’s that kind of place.
📍Rua Marquês de Pombal 120, 2520-294 Peniche
www.facebook.com/draiz.restaurante
Photo by D’Raiz on TripAdvisor
Cantinho do Bolha
If you’re after hearty Portuguese food without the tourist markup, head to Cantinho do Bolha. This no-frills spot serves delicious budget friendly daily specials (pratos do dia). Think options like braised pork loin with mashed potatoes, or salt cod fritters (pataniscas) with tomato rice, always with an option of soup, either fish or vegetable based. Their lineup of petiscos is also great for a more casual snack, including options perfect for sharing like slowly cooked gizzards (moelas), stuffed mushrooms, fried cuttlefish strips (choco frito), eggs with alheira, and platters with Portuguese cheeses and cured meats (enchidos). Cantinho do Bolha delivers good food, generous portions and excellent value.
📍Rua Dom Luís de Ataíde 22, 2520-408 Peniche
www.instagram.com/cantinhodobolha
Photo by Catarina on Google
Bar do Cerro
Tucked along the coast near Peniche’s surf spots, Bar do cerro has surprisingly good dishes for such a cool looking bar. The food is indeed simple, but it’s super fresh, tasty and thoughtfully plated. Don’t come here for regional cuisine or elaborate recipes, but more for casual bites like crispy fried fish with house-made sauce, pulled pork sandwiches, burgers with great home fries, and some vegetarian options too. If you’re not particularly hungry, you can always enjoy the sunny terrace with panoramic ocean views while grabbing a cold drink or a cup of coffee. It is pleasant even during winter, as it has a glass wall that shields you from the wind. If you’re a digital nomad looking to catch up on work while in Peniche, you’ll be happy to know that Bar do Carro has decent WIFI too.
📍Av. Monsenhor Bastos, 2520-206 Peniche
Photo by Bar do Cerro on Facebook
The Capital Lounge Restaurant
The Capital Lounge Restaurante brings together Portuguese ingredients and international technique, offering a menu that feels a little elevated but still quite approachable. Located right in the center of town, this town is open from the early morning, offering a cooked English breakfast option, as the owners are English. This is something which is not common in Portugal and, as you’d understand, not traditional. For main meals later on things get more local, making the most of seasonal ingredients. The menu features Portuguese dishes like beautifully tender octopus à lagareiro, or the house monkfish rice (arroz de tamboril) served for two, if you’re patient enough to wait the 30 minutes it takes to prepare it. On the more contemporary side, you can opt for a creatively plated tuna steak with beetroot gel and mango-chili purée, a sirloin steak with chimichurri, or the French-trimmed lamb chops served with a full spread of gourmet sides. Vegetarian options like mushroom risotto and lentil bolognese are also not particularly local, but they are great options for those who’d like to enjoy a meal without fish or meat.
📍Rua José Estevão 41, 2520-467 Peniche
https://thecapital-lounge.wixsite.com/restaurant
Photo by The Capital Lounge on TripAdvisor
Sol é Vida
Sol é Vida isn’t fancy. And it doesn’t need to be. This wooden shack is perched right on the edge of Praia da Consolação, and it almost feels like it was born out of the rocks themselves. The food is good and you can come here alone for it, but it’s also a stunning lookout post for wave lovers. During summer, you’ll probably catch the sea spray on the terrace. During winter, particularly on stormy days, it’s worth it because of the visual spectacle too. Sol é Vida became even more popular after celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay visited and praised the local food. This is honest grub for folks who care about the freshness of the ingredients more than they care about the decor of the restaurant. Order the grills of fresh fish, squid or the tender baby cuttlefish (choquinhos), or even a heartier fish pasta stew (massada de peixe). If your budget allows and you have time to linger around the time leisurely, the mixed seafood platter (mariscada) is also a treat worth enjoying at Sol é Vida.
📍Largo Nossa Sra. da Consolação 9, 2525-433 Atouguia da Baleia
www.instagram.com/sol.e.vida_restaurante
Photo by Sol é Vida on TripAdvisor
Prainha Wine Bar
With a front row seat to Baleal’s north beach, Prainha Wine Bar delivers exactly what you want from a coastal meal: fresh seafood, cold wine, and a view you’ll remember after you meal, quite probably, even more than the meal itself. Originally named Amigos do Baleal, this is a family run spot that has been around since 1961, and is now being managed by the second generation in the same family, still in love with the same local flavors from the sea. The menu focuses on Portuguese classics such as tasty petiscos, grilled fish of the freshest kind, and regional desserts. The vibe is super casual and relaxed, with some music in the background and a breezy terrace that fills up quickly on sunny days. If you’re spending the day in Baleal, perhaps surfing, swimming, or just people-watching, this is the kind of place where you stop for lunch and you may end up staying through sunset.
📍Av. da Praia, 2520-051 Baleal
www.instagram.com/restauranteprainhabaleal
Photo by Center of Portugal
Mesa da Ilha
If you make the journey to the Berlengas Islands, there’s only one place to sit down for a proper meal and, trust us, you’ll want to: Mesa da Ilha. Run by a local fishing family with three generations of ties to the island, this restaurant is a labor of love and one of the few chances to actually taste the Berlengas. Set in the former Mar e Sol, the restaurant was reborn in 2019 with a new name and a refreshed focus on simple, well-executed dishes that highlight local ingredients, especially whatever the sea happens to be offering that day. Expect grilled meagre (corvina), mero, and rockfish (cantaril) caught in the surrounding waters, or dive into slightly more refined creations like greater amberjack ceviche with sweet potato purée, or octopus with romesco sauce, crispy Parma ham, and pickled red onion. Don’t skip the lingueirão à Bulhão Patot, a garlicky razor clam dish that’s pure coastal Portugal on a plate. The vibe is relaxed and welcoming, and if you don’t feel like heading back to the mainland, they also offer local accommodation, a rare and unforgettable chance to sleep on the island.
📍Arquipélago das Berlengas, 2520-644 Peniche
https://restauranteberlenga.pt
Photo by Mesa da Ilha on TripAdvisor
The best Portuguese style bakeries and pastry shops in Peniche
Calé Confeitaria
With over 30 years of baking behind them, Calé Confeitaria started as a small bread shop in 1980, and has grown into a regional powerhouse, supplying pastries and baked goods across Peniche, Caldas da Rainha, and beyond. Despite its large scale now, the quality that made them popular hasn’t been compromised. You can step in either of their Peniche shops and find a good mix of classic pastelaria, Portuguese breads (including unique creations like pão do mar and pão d’algas, made with ingredients from the sea), and a growing selection of regional sweets you won’t find elsewhere. Among the house specialties are their buttery cookies known as biscoitos de Peniche, a bold pastry featuring seaweed but also a sweet custard like filling (pastel d’algas), and the even more popular pelicano, with an eggy dough and a light almond glaze. Calé is a perfect stop if you’re curious to snack on Portuguese classics but also taste how Portuguese baking is evolving!
📍Calé: Rua João Matos Bilhau 9, 2520-451 Peniche
📍Calé II: Praça Jacob Rodrigues Pereira 3, 2520-294 Peniche
Photo by Calé Confeitaria on TripAdvisor
Pastelaria Princesa do Mar
Not at all touristic, Pastelaria Princesa do Mar is a classic Portuguese pastelaria that keeps things exactly how locals like it, focusing on coffee, fresh bread and the usual assortment of sweets and savories Portuguese pastry shops usually sell. With a loyal neighborhood following, it’s known for its fabrico próprio, meaning everything is made in house. This is also a great spot to try the Peniche’s regional sweets that will most likely catch your eye as you walk in and see them on display by the counter case. Try the ossinhos de Peniche, delicate puff pastry “bones” dusted with sugar – pictured here. The esses are almond flavored cookies shaped like an “S,” crispy on the outside, tender inside. The folhadinhos are flaky bites filled with egg yolk cream or fruit jam, perfect with an espresso (bica). They also bake an incredible torta de noz, which is a rich walnut roll, and make custom birthday cakes for locals who know where the good stuff is.
📍Rua António Maria Oliveira 34 36, 2520-287 Peniche
www.facebook.com/p/Pastelaria-Princesa-do-Mar-100063558759845
Photo by Pastelaria Princesa do Mar on Facebook
Padaria Independente
If you want to start your day like a local in Peniche, Padaria Independente is the place. This no-frills, family-run bakery is beloved by residents for its freshly baked bread, pastéis de nata that are better than you’d expect, and a full spread of Portuguese pastelaria classics, from mil folhas to seasonal treats like bolo rei at Christmas or folar around Easter. It’s not trendy, but that’s exactly the point. Prices are fair, the atmosphere is down to earth, and it’s an ideal stop for a proper Portuguese style breakfast, with a milky coffee (galão) and a bread roll with butter (pão com manteiga) or sweet pastry. They also do celebration cakes, themed bakes, and have a solid variety of regional breads if you’re stocking up for a beach picnic or a trip to the islands.
📍Rua das Amoreiras 24, 2520-339 Peniche
www.facebook.com/padariaindependenteperoladepeniche
Photo by Padaria Independente on Facebook
Whether you visit in the heat of summer or the quiet of winter, Peniche makes for a deliciously rewarding day trip from Lisbon, full of things to explore, experience, and, most importantly, taste. For more foodie day trip ideas, check out our article Day Trips From Lisbon That We Locals Also Enjoy, and don’t forget to follow Taste of Lisboa on Instagram for more local tips.
Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:
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