Moita travel guide for food lovers

If you’re the kind of traveler who prefers tascas over tourist traps, then you should consider Moita as the destination for your next day trip from Lisbon. If you’re in the Portuguese capital, this laid-back town is on the south bank on the Tagus river. Visiting offers an insight into everyday Portugal, complete with strong local traditions, and some delicious food too.

The easiest way to reach Moita from Lisbon is by commuter boat. From Praça do Comércio, hop aboard the Transtejo ferry to Barreiro, a quick ride that takes about 20 minutes across the Tagus. Once in Barreiro, you can either catch a bus (TST line 3 or 5, for example – check the exact timings here) or a short taxi ride to Moita, which is just 6 kilometers away. The journey from Lisbon is not too long, taking less than one hour in total, depending on connections. For those who would like to make the most of the day, this is a great excuse to explore Barreiro too, which we feel has a great food scene which is often overlooked – read our full Barreiro guide here.

Moita has a peculiar identity, with strong local traditions that still leave room for it to be a working class commuter town from Lisbon. Many of its residents work across the river, making the daily ferry journey to the capital. But, upon return, we bet they feel how life in Moita is slower, quieter, and somewhat more community oriented. Especially during the weekend, or at least in the late afternoon during the warmer months, it’s not that rare to still see older men playing cards in the shade, or kids kicking a football near the riverfront, and a culture that’s both proudly working class, and connected to the water. 

Feat photo by CM Moita

Photo by CM Moita

When you go visit, we’d suggest starting at the Cais da Moita, which is a living postcard of the town’s connection to the river. Fishing boats and traditional varinos bob in the water, and it’s from here that you can board “O Boa Viagem” for a river tour that feels like a little trip back in time (check the local authorities for further information and schedules). If you can, do this trip during golden hour, when the light hits just right for some perfect photos.

Photo by CM Moita

On land, you can wander into the historic centre, one of the most pleasant areas in town, perfect for people watching and for soaking up the local vibes. Here you’ll find cafés with shaded terraces, but also iconic sights like the Altar de Nossa Senhora da Piedade, and the old Town Hall building (Praça da República 14).

For a dose of history but also stunning views, walk up to the Chapel of São Sebastião, which dates back to the 16th century. From this peaceful spot, you can enjoy a great view of the river but also of the surrounding countryside. Don’t miss the Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Rua Machado dos Santos 13) either, a beautiful baroque church that shares its name with Moita’s most iconic boat.

Photo by Minube

If you like being surrounded by green, head to Parque Municipal da Moita (Rua Gen. Humberto Delgado 182), the town’s main urban park, designed by renowned landscape architect Gonçalo Ribeiro Telles. With nearly 4.000 square meters of space, this is where families picnic, kids run wild, and locals stroll on lazy weekends.

Photo by CM Moita

When the sun is shining (which, thankfully, is most of the year), do like the locals and head to Praia Fluvial do Rosário (Largo das Forças Armadas 20, Gaio-Rosário). Just a short drive or cycle from the centre of Moita, this river beach on the Tejo offers a kilometre of sand, shady picnic spots, and even facilities like showers. We feel like the views of Lisbon from here are seriously underrated, and have nothing to envy the more popular ones from Cacilhas and Almada, also on the south bank of the river. Plus, if you decide to lounge around here, there are a few options of snack bars and restaurants just by the riverfront (more specific suggestions below).

Photo by Lisboa Secreta

History lovers should make time for the Moinho de Maré de Alhos Vedros (Largo do Descarregador 1, Alhos Vedros), a tide mill originally built in the 15th century to grind grain using the rhythm of the river. Today, it serves as a museum and cultural hub, where you can learn about the region’s history through architecture and engineering. While in Alhos Vedros, you could also check out the 13th century gothic Church of São Lourenço (Largo Igreja 037, Alhos Vedros). 

Photo by UALMedia

In nearby Sarilhos Pequenos, the naval shipyard is a living piece of heritage, where traditional boat-building techniques are still practiced. Pop by and, if you’re not shy, chat with one of the masters to learn more about what happens around here, as there are no formal guided visits as such.

Photo by CM Moita

And finally, visit the Sítio das Marinhas, a salt pan area with a small interpretative center that shows how salt has long been extracted in the region. It’s a peaceful place to walk and learn about a tradition that helped shape Portugal’s economy for centuries.

Photo by Tauroleve

And now, the bull in the room: we ought to mention that Moita’s identity is closely tied to tauromachia. And while we are certainly not here to support bullfighting, it has to be said that the Praça de Touros Daniel do Nascimento is a relevant cultural symbol in this town. Built in 1950, this bull ring is the epicentre of the annual Festas da Moita, when parades, bull runs, and music fill the streets.

Even Moita’s food culture is somewhat linked to its tauromachic identity and, during the Festas da Moita, many locals and visiting aficionados celebrate with traditional meaty dishes, big outdoor grills, and lots of beer. It’s a time of tradition, celebration and, let’s face it, excess. 

Photo by CM Moita

But, historically speaking, the Tejo river has been Moita’s main pantry. The local cuisine isn’t generally elaborate or fancy, relying more on traditional comfort dishes, well executed, but with no fuss. Moita’s riverside specialities include fisherman’s stew (caldeirada), fish and pasta stew (massada de peixe) and hearty broth with bread and fish (ensopado), featuring species such as eel or ray, or simply whatever the catch of the day may be.

Around here, grilled fish is a given. But inland traditions hold strong too, featuring slowly cooked dishes like cozido à portuguesa, and petiscos such as chicken gizzards (moelas), liver with boiled potatoes (iscas com elas), or tender pieces of meat with sauce (pica-pau). Then there are the dishes you won’t find in most guidebooks. Take ossos carregados, for example, which is a rich, gelatinous stew made with pork bones, cartilage, and marrow, whose name literally translates as “loaded bones”. Especially during colder months, this rustic meaty dish is loved by locals, often enjoyed with a jug of house wine, quite possibly from nearby Setúbal or Palmela. 

Best Portuguese food restaurants in Moita

Restaurante Girassol

If there’s one place in Moita that locals mention with a nostalgic smile, is Restaurante Girassol. A true neighborhood institution, this restaurant has been serving traditional Portuguese comfort food for decades, and judging by the loyal crowd that fills its dining room day after day, it’s still going strong. The vibes are old-school and so are most of their main dishes, such as bean stew with cured meats (feijoada à transmontana), fish and pasta stew (massada de peixe), or, when in season, bread stew with eels (ensopado de enguias). Girassol is also one of the main places in the area where you can count on finding ossos carregados done just right, that is, with a sticky texture that, for some, may actually be an acquired taste. Service is fast, the portions are generous, and the prices are quite friendly too.

📍Rua Dom Manuel I 42, 2860-471 Moita
www.instagram.com/girassol_restaurante

Photo by Girassol on TripAdvisor

3ª Parte

If you’re not interested in fish while in Moita, head straight to 3ª Parte, meat lovers’ paradise. They are particularly famous for their ossos carregados, cooking about 50Kg of this super local dish a day. Their menu includes other specialties fans of meat will enjoy, such as slowly stewed pork cheeks with red wine, aged beef prepared (carnes maturadas) on the grill, a variety of pork recipes, and rabbit. If you’re visiting with someone who prefers fish, we’d recommend asking for their creamy oven baked cod (bacalhau com natas) or the more local small sardines served with naughty rice with tomato (petinga frita com arroz de tomate). The food and atmosphere at 3ª Parte are slow and soulful. The portions are huge without impacting the prices, which are modest. And this, paired with the beautiful food itself, explains why this restaurant in Moita is usually quite full.

📍Rua 5 de Outubro 6, 2860-418 Moita
www.instagram.com/3a_parte

Photo by CM Moita

Velho Cangalho

With a name that literally means “old yoke”, Velho Cangalho is all about old rustic charm. Come here to explore rural Portuguese flavors, served in a setting that feels halfway between a countryside adega and your uncle’s weekend garage tavern. As you walk in, it’ll enticingly smell of meats, such as Iberian black pork on the grill, beef ribs, simple pan-fried steaks with fried eggs (bitoque), or the very uniquely Portuguese alheira sausage. Like the locals would often do, trust the house red to wash it all down!

📍Rua António Aleixo 5, 2860-161 Moita
www.instagram.com/velhocangalho

Photo by Velho Cangalho on Facebook

Mar da Palha

Facing the river and named after the shimmering stretch of the Tejo known as Mar da Palha, this restaurant brings a certain coastal vibe to Moita’s dining scene. It’s a more contemporary spot that tries to be elegant by using white tablecloths or having more polished service. When it comes to the menu, the focus is on the sea. Dishes like fried sole fish (linguadinhos fritos), seafood cataplana (cataplana de marisco), and roasted octopus with garlicky olive oil (polvo à lagareiro) are some of the favorites. If you’re looking to treat yourself with some classic Portuguese flavors, don’t skip their brothy rice with monkfish and shrimp (arroz de tamboril com camarão). The wine list is thoughtful, often featuring bottles from the Setúbal Peninsula, and the riverside setting makes this a perfect choice for a romantic sunset dinner. 

📍Av. Marginal, 2860-329 Moita
www.facebook.com/restaurante.mardapalha.3

Photo by Mar da Palha

Porta 13

Small and stylish, Porta 13 is full of personality! It’s what we now-a-days call a contemporary Portuguese tavern, with mismatched chairs, local art on the walls, and a great playlist. The menu is compact but full of flair, with seasonal dishes that mix Portuguese roots and modern touches. Expect things like green bean tempura (peixinhos da horta) with tartar sauce, stewed Iberian pork cheeks (bochechas de porco preto) or, on luckier days, a beautifully plated monkfish pasta (massada de tamboril) that would make any of the best seafood restaurants in Lisbon jealous. As usual, we recommend ordering wine from the nearby Portuguese wine reasons and, generally speaking, to keep your meal as local as possible.

📍Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda 13, 2860-427 Moita
www.instagram.com/restaurante.porta.13

Photo by Porta 13

Quintal da Capricho

What we love the most about Quintal da Capricho is the laidback atmosphere, particularly felt at their almost “secret garden”.  The outdoor seating, under vines and fairy lights, is the kind of spot you want to linger in, especially on warm evenings with a chilled bottle of white and a table full of friends. The food is mostly rustic and seasonal, with dishes like salt cod with cornbread crust (bacalhau com broa), Portuguese style pork with pickles (carne de porco à portuguesa), and house specials that rotate. Sometimes, special dishes are also featured, particularly on Sundays. So if you see a rich seafood açorda or a slow roasted lamb on the menu, do not hesitate. The owner is usually around, making sure customers are happy and well fed, and it’s quite likely that he’ll persuade you to order dessert. If you give in, try the cookie cake with coffee and buttercream (bolo de bolacha).

📍Rua Capitão Salgueiro Maia 20, 2860-540 Moita
www.facebook.com/quintal.capricho

Photo by CM Moita

Tasca Molha o Bico

With a name like Molha o Bico, literally “wet your beak”, you know you’re in for something that is going to hit the spot! This tasca encapsulates the vibe of Moita: no-frills, loud in the best way, and proudly traditional. It’s the kind of place where the TV’s on in the background, the regulars have their own table, and the daily specials are written down on a paper taped to the fridge. Their food is delicious and they are particularly well known for their ossos carregados. This is where you come when you want the real deal: tender pork bones slowly cooked until the gelatin trembles, served in a rich broth with chunks of bread or boiled potatoes, to help soak up the meat juices. Depending on the day, you might also catch fish dishes like fried ray (raia frita), or marinated mackerel (carapaus alimados), all cooked like grandma would’ve done, always generous when it comes to garlic and olive oil.

📍Rua Luís de Camões 19, 2860-408 Moita
www.facebook.com/lazaro.antonio.1848

Photo by Vitor Simao on Google

Seleto Coreto

A welcome change from the typical tasca vibe, Seleto Coreto brings a touch of contemporary cool to the Moita dining scene, without losing sight of its roots. Located near the town’s bandstand (coreto), this café-restaurant-wine bar hybrid is where tradition gets a casual-chic makeover. When you visit, take your time to go through the starters, including Portuguese cheese and charcuterie platters, perfect for sharing, or a more individual steak sandwich (prego no pão), served on brioche. If you are interested in a signature take on bacalhau à Brás, one of Lisbon’s most iconic recipes, ask for it at Seleto Coreto. They also take their wines seriously here, often showcasing small nearby producers.

📍Praça da República 4, 2860-411 Moita
www.instagram.com/seletocoreto

Photo by Issuu

Churrasqueira do Ximi

If you follow the scent of charcoal and sizzling fat in Moita, chances are it’ll lead you straight to Churrasqueira do Ximi. Every Portuguese town virtually has a BBQ restaurant, particularly focused on peri-peri chicken, and in Moita Ximi is the best. Not only is it super tasty, their portions could also feed a small army. The star of the show is, of course, the frango de churrasco, marinated and flame grilled to perfection, with crispy skin and juicy meat. The chicken is served with fries and the house piri-piri sauce some have said is even addictive. But locals know to come here also for the pork belly (entremeada), for the Iberian black pork loin (secretos de porco preto), or the ribs (entrecosto), all charred just the right amount. The dining room is simple and the service is quick. Here you’ll eat well and you’ll eat a lot, especially for what you pay. Many locals also take their BBQ home in a foil box, as churrasco has, for many years, been Portugal’s favorite take out meal.

📍Rua D. João I 66, 2860-421 Moita
www.instagram.com/churrasqueiradoximi

Photo by UberEats

Chão Duro

Chão Duro restaurant is named after the locality on the outskirts of Moita. They focus on Alentejano cuisine, with strong flavors and bold portions. The dining room is large and fairly simple, being the kind of place that fills up fast at lunchtime with workers and families craving a satisfying meal. Meat dominates the menu, but vegetarians might find a decent vegetable soup of the day (sopa de legumes / sopa do dia) or, in good Alentejo style, eggs with asparagus (ovos com espargos). You don’t come to Chão Duro for a refined meal, but for an honest, full of flavor experience on the place, as well as warm hospitality.

📍Rua do Moinho 19, Chão Duro, 2860-421 Moita
www.facebook.com/Chao.Duro.Restaurante

Photo by CM Moita

Sabor & Conversa

With a name that translates to “Flavour & Conversation,” this café and restaurant inspired regulars to linger long after dessert, chatting with the staff like old friends and greeting newcomers like it only happens in small towns. It is part pastelaria, part snack bar, and also casual eatery, with the added bonus of being a solid choice whether you’re stopping in for breakfast, a quick lunch, or an uncomplicated dinner. Expect the classics: ham and cheese toasties (tostas mistas), omelets, and a steak with fried egg (bitoque) that is surprisingly very good. They also serve daily specials (pratos do dia), including classics like bacalhau à Brás or cuttlefish and white beans stew (feijoada de chocos). If you’re trying to improve your Portuguese, you can come here and strike up a “conversa” with the locals!

📍Rua Padre Manuel de Almeida 9A, 2860-411 Moita
www.facebook.com/p/Sabor-e-Conversa-100054578284646

Photo by UberEats

As Bifanas do Mestre André

You can smell As Bifanas do Mestre André before you see it! This legendary spot has built its reputation one juicy pork sandwich at a time, becoming a must-stop not just during the Festas da Moita, but all year round. It’s not fancy. It doesn’t try to be. What it offers is pure, saucy perfection in the form of a bifana: thin slices of pork simmered in a garlicky, peppery marinade, stuffed into soft bread rolls, and often eaten standing up with mustard dripping down your wrist. Locals swear by it for late night snacks, mid-morning fuel, or post-tauromachic celebrations. There’s probably no better quick snack in Moita than this.

📍Rua Gago Coutinho 18, 2860-428 Moita
www.instagram.com/bifanasdomestreandre

Photo by UberEats

Bico Amarelo

Bright, breezy, and right by the water, Bico Amarelo is one of those places where the setting is half the pleasure, while the food takes care of the rest. Located just steps from the Praia Fluvial do Rosário, it’s a favorite for long summer lunches, sunset petiscos, and lazy Sunday meals that turn into early evening drinks. The vibe is casual, with nautical touches and plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the river. The kitchen focuses primarily on fresh fish and seafood, with dishes like seafood açorda (açorda de marisco), tangy clams with lemon and cilantro (ameijoas à Bulhão Pato), and a perfectly grilled sea bass (robalo) that arrives still sizzling. When it comes to products from the land, their signature house steal (bife à casa) is one of the best sellers. The wine list is short but curated, and the sangria flows when the weather’s hot. Whether you’re looking for a proper sit-down meal or a snack after the beach, Bico Amarelo is a good option by the river beach of Rosário.

📍Rua da Praia 1, Praia do Rosário, 2860-301 Moita
www.facebook.com/p/Churrasqueira-bico-amarelo-Lda-100064704275285

Photo by UberEats

The best bakeries and breakfast cafés in Moita

Chá Conventual

Chá Conventual is a tea room and pastry shop, but also a local love letter to Portugal’s conventual pastry tradition. The glass counter is full of golden delights such as pastéis de nata, pine nuts and honey nougat (pinhoadas), cottage cheese tarts (queijadas), and seasonal specialties like sweet fritters (filhós) or honey cake (bolo de mel), depending on the time of year. The vibe is calm and elegant without being pretentious, making it a favourite spot for afternoon chats, quiet reading breaks, or even a celebratory slice of cake. True to its name, the tea menu is thoughtfully curated, but you’ll also find quality espresso and rich hot chocolate for those who aren’t all that much into tea and infusions.

📍Rua da Liberdade 6B, 2860-414 Moita
www.instagram.com/chaconventual

Photo by UberEats

Pastelaria Croissanteria Sebastião

Pastelaria Croissanteria Sebastião is one of those pastelarias where locals queue up first thing in the morning for buttery croissants and milky coffees, but where you can also enjoy other sugar bombs such as mille feuille (mil folhas), puff pastry with almonds and egg cream (travesseiros), and (of course) a top-notch pastel de nata. The selection is generous and always fresh, with a display case that feels like a greatest hits collection of Portuguese café culture. There’s also typical Portuguese savoury snacks worth trying, including pies (empadas), turnovers (rissóis), and hot chorizo bread (pão com chouriço) that flies off the shelves as soon as it comes out of the oven. Seating inside is casual, often filled with local regulars catching up over espresso, and the service is friendly. 

📍Rua Padre Manuel de Almeida 3B, 2860-411 Moita
www.instagram.com/sebastiao.moita

Photo by ADN Barreiro on Facebook

Pastelaria Madrugada

Open from the early hours when Moita is still waking, Pastelaria Madrugada is a perfect place to come for a Portuguese style breakfast. This old school pastry shop is everything but minimalistic when it comes to decor. But when it comes to food and drinks, it actually carries the usual pastries you’d typically find at a Portuguese pastelaria, including a brioche with egg cream and coconut topping (pão de Deus) locals rave about. During the week, you’ll see Moita’s working people come in and out quickly. But, during the weekend, the shop fills with locals enjoying a leisurely weekend breakfast, making it a prime spot for pastries, but also for people watching and, if you’re up for it, a little mingling too. 

📍Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda 44, 2860-427 Moita
www.facebook.com/PastelariaMadrugada

Photo by Pastelaria Madrugada on Facebook

Padaria Custódio

Padaria Custódio opened fairly recently in Moita and it’s the place to go for artisanal bread. You can choose from rustic loaves with crackly exterior and moist crumb, to individual Portuguese bread rolls. But don’t skip the sweets either: rice muffins (bolos de arroz), and cookies like areias or old-fashioned broas often make an appearance, especially around holidays. There’s no seating as this is a place for take-away only. The space is filled with bags of flour stacked up high and a constant flow of regulars who know Padaria Custódio sells the best bread in Moita.

📍Rua do Norte 9, 2860-437 Moita
www.instagram.com/padaria_custodio

Photo by Padaria Custódio on Instagram

If you enjoyed this guide, we’d like to invite you to browse our blog for more day trips and explorations of Portugal’s lesser known culinary gems. For real time tips and local finds, you can also follow Taste of Lisboa on Instagram.

Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:

Portugal’s best rice dishes – and where to eat them in Lisbon

The 3 iconic Portuguese meat sandwiches: bifana, prego and leitão

Day trips from Lisbon that we locals love to do

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