Lumiar travel guide for food lovers
Each of Lisbon’s neighborhoods has a distinct character. Lumiar stands as a hidden gem, often bypassed by the typical tourist trail yet brimming with cultural richness and culinary opportunities that would make any adventurous food lover happy.
Feat photo by Gardens
Photo by Prestige Realty Advisors
Far from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s more frequented areas, Lumiar offers a unique glimpse into a Lisbon that seamlessly merges its aristocratic past with the vibrancy of contemporary urban life. Historically, it served as the residential haven for Portuguese aristocracy, their grandiose palaces and manicured gardens imparting a sense of nobility that can still be felt in some of the neighborhood’s older areas. This aristocratic legacy is now intertwined with modern developments, family-friendly parks, impressive street art installations, and a thriving culinary scene.
Photo by Casafari
Lumiar encompasses several distinct areas, such as the Alta de Lisboa (including the Cruz Vermelha Neighborhood) and Telheiras, which are the most modern parts of the neighborhood; as well as Lumiar Centro and Paço do Lumiar, where some historical villas and palaces still tell of Lumiar’s past.
Lumiar is easily accessible from downtown Lisbon. The most straightforward way to reach Lumiar is by taking the Lisbon Metro. The yellow line (linha amarela) directly connects downtown Lisbon to Lumiar, with the Quinta das Conchas and Lumiar stations serving the neighborhood. You can also reach Telheiras on the green line (linha verde), and while this is not the heart of Lumiar, the area officially belongs to this parish too. Several bus routes also connect downtown Lisbon to Lumiar, offering a scenic alternative to the metro. Buses such as 703, 717, 736, and 778 provide regular service to different parts of Lumiar (more info on bus routes here), allowing for some sightseeing from a very local perspective, as you make your way there.
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
No matter how you get to the area, a visit to Lumiar is incomplete without exploring its verdant landscapes, and this is precisely what brings many lisboetas to this part of the city, particularly during the weekend. The extensive Quinta das Conchas (Alameda das Linhas de Torres) is a lush oasis in the heart of the city, offering a sprawling green space for relaxation, sports, and leisurely strolls. The park’s historical significance, combined with its modern role as a communal gathering space, mirrors Lumiar’s blend of the old and new.
Photo by RAF
For those captivated by the allure of street art, Lumiar presents the Talude da Rua Helena Vaz Da Silva (R. Dezoito 3), by street artist Rui Alexandre Ferreira, better known simply as RAF, an open-air museum that has cemented its place as a must-visit destination for art enthusiasts. This sprawling canvas of contemporary cultural expression is no more no less than Portugal’s largest exhibit of street art, and one of the biggest in Europe too.
Photo by Trienal de Lisboa
But Lumiar’s cultural offerings extend beyond its outdoor attractions. The neighborhood is home to significant cultural institutions like the Biblioteca Municipal Orlando Ribeiro library (Estr. de Telheiras 146), the Museu Nacional de Teatro e Dança (Estr. do Lumiar 10) dedicated to theater and dance, and the Museu Nacional de Traje e Moda, each contributing to Lisbon’s cultural heritage. White the local library’s program may be more suitable for local residents, the national costume museum can be super interesting for visitors too, as it displays a fascinating collection of historical clothing from the 18th century to the present.
Amidst Lumiar’s diverse attractions, its culinary scene stands out as a reflection of the neighborhood’s eclectic charm. From traditional Portuguese restaurants tucked away in historic buildings to modern eateries that reinterpret classic dishes, Lumiar’s dining options are absolutely great.
Best Portuguese food restaurants in Lumiar
Os Compadres
Os Compadres, once a bustling petiscos house at Lisbon’s Feira Popular, has reinvented itself in the neighborhood of Lumiar, preserving its esteemed reputation and loyal following. Offering a lunch menu that encapsulates the essence of traditional Portuguese cuisine, the restaurant specializes in a variety of dishes, from the hearty cozido à Portuguesa to exquisite seafood, and its signature steaks with cream sauce (bife com natas) or mixed peppers sauce (bife com quatro pimentas). Dessert lovers are in for a treat with homemade delights such as serradura and farófias. With modern, spacious settings and a terrace, Os Compadres provides a welcoming atmosphere for all, and it is a great place if what you are craving is typical Portuguese fare.
📍Est do Desv. 28, 1750-099 Lisbon
https://restauranteoscompadres.net
Photo by Os Compadres
Gardens
Perched like a castle amidst the verdant hills of Paço do Lumiar Golf Course (the only golf course in Lisbon), Restaurante Gardens boasts a breathtaking panoramic view where the green contrasts with the blue of two serene lakes. This distinguished spot is open for the golf club members as well as for the general public who can afford it. Embracing “the soul of Portuguese cuisine with a contemporary flair”, Gardens offers both an à la carte menu and daily specials (including fish – do mar – and meat – da terra – specialities), catering to individual tastes, as well as group dining experiences. Its unique location makes it a must-visit for food enthusiasts looking for a refined meal in Lumiar.
📍Rua Formosinho Sanchez 79, 1600-263 Lisbon
Photo by EGGAS
Lume Brando
Lume Brando (which literally translates as “low flame”) focuses on slow-cooked, heartwarming dishes. This cozy eatery captures the essence of Portuguese comfort food, serving up beloved recipes such as octopus rice (arroz de polvo), salt cod gratin with bechamel and vegetables (bacalhau espiritual), white bean and cuttlefish stew (feijoada de choco); but also more contemporary takes on local ingredients such as turkey breast with farinheira sausage, seafood and spinach puff pastry pie, and so much more. The ambiance, reminiscent of a home kitchen, invites diners to relax and enjoy their meals as if they were guests in a friend’s home, and we just happen to love this kind of vibe.
📍Rua Agostinho Neto 37C, 1750-007 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/lumebrando.20
Photo by Lume Brando
O Jacinto
Jacinto was a gastronomically inclined character from the book “A Cidade e as Serras”, by renowned Portuguese classic writer Eça de Queiroz. This restaurant, established in 1971, was named after him. Nestled in the old zone of Telheiras, right by the 2ª circular, it occupies a villa so unassuming from the outside, yet so rich in history and flavor inside, that its loyal clientele have been returning since its inception. O Jacinto is akin to rediscovering the simple yet profound joys of rustic Portuguese cooking: think about comforting dishes like cozido, roasted goatling (cabrito assado), sucklin pig (leitão assado), broad bean stew (favas com entrecosto), naughty rices, and so much more. The style of cooking at O Jacinto is reminiscent of home, yet the presentation is a little elevated, even if remaining quite classical. The extensive wine list includes more than 300 references of table wines from Portugal’s diverse wine regions, as well as fortified wines to end your meal on a sweet and allegedly digestion aiding note.
📍Av. Ventura Terra 2, 1600-781 Lisbon
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Tapiscaria do Bairro
Opened by lifelong friends Rafael Pinto and André Mendonça, Tapiscaria do Bairro is a beautiful eatery in Telheiras, born out of a pandemic-era dream. The restaurant blends traditional Portuguese cuisine with contemporary twists, offering dishes that are Portuguese in their essence but that are reinterpreted with international influences. Think about mouth-watering petiscos like fried eggs and potatoes known as ovos rotos, alheira in panko, and shrimp gyozas. With options for carnivores as well as vegetarians, and a notable francesinha on Fridays, it caters to all tastes. Housed in a villa with a history-rich decor featuring family heirlooms, it provides a cozy dining experience for 20 inside and 25 on its covered terrace. Tapiscaria do Bairro is celebrated for filling a niche in the neighborhood, with affordable lunch specials, wonderful snacks to be shared with friends with lots of time to spend around the table dining and wining, as well as take-away options (always in biodegradable packaging) for folks who don’t feel like cooking after a day at work.
📍Rua Hermano Neves 22B, 1600-477 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/tapiscariadobairro
Photo by Tapiscaria do Bairro
Bifes & Sabores
Located near Quinta do Lambert in Lumiar, Bifes & Sabores, which literally translates as steaks and flavors, is a haven for meat lovers. It offers good cuts of meat accompanied by a selection of sauces to enhance the meat’s flavor: Roquefort, mustard, pepper or the house’s secret sauce (molho da casa) are bound to make your steak even juicier. The ambiance at Bifes & Sabores is all about comfort and satisfaction, extending to its charming terrace in Jardim Parque Europa. Surrounded by beautifully restored landscapes and a serene lake, it’s the perfect setting to unwind and indulge, a feeling that will by default make you browse the desserts menu, which includes some Portuguese and internationally inspired sweet options. There’s nothing complicated about the food at Bifes & Sabores, but when you’re craving a good steak and fries, it sure hits the spot.
📍Rua Manuel Marques 14 Loja P, 1750-171 Lisbon
Photo by The Fork
Talho Central
Talho Central, which first opened its doors at the end of 2016 in Barreiro, has successfully expanded across the Tejo to grace the Lumiar district of Lisbon with its meat-centric cuisine. This butcher’s shop turned restaurant has quickly become a go-to destination for meat lovers, especially on Sundays, which are arguably the best day to visit. On this day, patrons are treated to an unlimited serving of Black Angus picanha, accompanied by fried sweet potatoes and salad at a very fair price – an offer that’s hard to resist! Besides the all-you-can-eat picanha they also serve other delectable dishes but, let’s be honest, meat aficionados will be the happiest around here.
📍Rua Agostinho Neto 7, 1750-217 Lisbon
Photo by Talho Central do Lumiar
Tasca do João
Tasca do João focuses on the regional cuisine from the Minho, known to be hearty recipe-wise, and served in generous portions. Patrons can savor specialties such as the rojões à Tasca do João (fried chunks of pork, northern Portuguese style), fried whole wild rabbit, goatling roast, and steaks. The desserts menu features classics such as sweet rice pudding (arroz doce), Portugal’s take on crème brûlée (leite creme) and the almost ubiquitous chocolate mousse. For those seeking an even more special experience, Tasca do João offers made-to-order dishes including hunter-style wild rabbit, hare rice, rooster cabidela, stewed partridge with red cabbage, and lamprey in Bordeaux style or with rice – a true Minho cuisine feast.
📍Rua do Lumiar 122, 1750-161 Lisbon
Photo by Evasões
Mercearia de L Praino
Mercearia de L Praino, open in Telheiras since 2014 is a family-owned gem not only from a culinary point of view but also artistic. Designed by an architect owner, the restaurant features sustainable architecture, with decorations made from corks and wine cases that showcase fusion of art and functionality. Doubling as a café and a grocery for Bavarian and Trás-os-Montes products, Mercearia de L Praino offers a unique spot to unwind and indulge in fantastic food at very fair prices. If you’re in for a treat, we’d recommend opting for one of the dishes from the northern mountainous area of portugal, such as the posta Mirandesa, a thick steak made from beef with DPO status, or the botelo com cascas, a very peculiar pork sausage featuring not only meat but also edible bones, served with stewed bean pods, aka cascas.
📍Rua Prof. Veiga Ferreira 23, 1600-673 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/mercearialpraino
Photo by Rua de Baixo
Cantinho do Sá
Cantinho do Sá is what we would refer to in Portuguese as cervejaria moderna, which even though translates as modern brewery, stands for a type of casual restaurant where indeed one can enjoy beer but, most of all, an array of typical petiscos. Their food is no-frills classic Portuguese, including all-time favorites such as steak with fried egg known locally as bitoque, tuna steak with vegetables, as well as smaller dishes to share, perfect to enjoy with friends as you catch the latest football match on TV. During lunch hours on weekdays, Cantinho do Sá also serves good value for money specials.
📍Rua António Stromp A, 1750-147 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/ocantinhodosa
Photo by Ana M.S. on FourSquare
Churrasqueira Rei dos Frangos
Churrasqueira Rei dos Frangos, a renowned spot for chicken lovers, brings the essence of Portuguese churrasco right into your home. Grilled chicken is Portugal’s favorite take-out food, and a go-to option to enjoy at home when cooking is not on the cards, for a family dinner or a gathering with friends. Frango de churrasco is convenient and the vast majority of people like it, even more so with fries and a personal touch of spicy piri-piri sauce. Unlike most churrascarias which specialize in takeaway food, Churrasqueira Rei dos Frangos also features a variety of other dishes, including Portuguese comfort stews, rice recipes, salt cod specialities and soups.
📍Alameda das Linhas de Torres 201c, 1600-488 Lisbon
Photo by Margarida N. on FourSquare
Caracol do Bairro
In Portugal, the tradition of eating snails, particularly in neighborhood tascas and snack bars, is a cherished summer pastime. Caracol do Bairro, a dedicated take-away spot for snails that opened in April 2018, brings this tradition to the forefront. Here, customers can indulge in both cooked and live snails, as well as mitra – a size variation between small snails and larger caracoletas. These delicacies are often served in a Bulhão Pato sauce, a classic Portuguese preparation more often than not applied to clams, and that combines garlic, olive oil, cilantro, and sometimes white wine, offering a rich and aromatic flavor profile that perfectly complements the tender snails. If you’d like to know what Lisbon’s summer tastes like, you must try snails while visiting our city! As per the usual, wash it all down with a cold draft beer.
📍Rua Prof. Manuel Valadares 19c, 1750-230 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/CARACOLDOBAIRRO
Photo by NIT
Taberna A Preciosa
Self-titled as a “Fábrica de Petiscos Português”, meaning, the portuguese petiscos factory, Taberna A Preciosa in Lumiar is all about small servings of typical portuguese appetizers and snacks. This establishment was once famed for its petiscos rodízio, that is, an all-you-can eat format which truly used to satisfy those with a large appetite. Even though the concept has slightly changed, the dishes remain basically the same, even though now you must order them individually. The list includes cold and hot specialities, including but not limited to: a variety of fried typical Portuguese savory snacks, octopus salad, stuffed crab shell, chicken gizzards, green bean tempura (peixinhos da horta, the predecessor of Japanese tempura), garlic shrimp, escabeche, and so much more. The food may not be that spectacular but it is nonetheless good and A Preciosa is a cool hang out to come grab a bite and share a few rounds with friends.
📍Av. Padre Cruz 1600, 1750-148 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/taber_naapreciosa
Photo by NIT
Solar de Telheiras
Nestled within the quiet streets of Telheiras, Solar de Telheiras is a traditional Portuguese food restaurant that even a lot of Lisboetas do not know about – but should! The menu is full of well executed traditional dishes, from one pot wonders to charcoal grills, amongst which the uber fresh grilled fish stands out. When it comes to comfort food, Solar de Telheiras sure knows what it’s doing. If you’re in an adventurous mood and would like to try one of the bizarre foods of Portugal, we recommend ordering the arroz de cabidela, which is a braised chicken and rice dish made with the poultry’s blood. Afterwards you may either go for a stroll in Telheiras for a glimpse of how locals live in this non-touristic area of Lisba, or seek the shade of a tree in Quinta das Conchas for a restorative nap.
📍Rua Prof. Francisco Gentil Lote E-1 Loja 1-A, 1600-625 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/restaurante.detelheiras
Photo by Solar de Telheiras
Os Martinhos
Os Martinhos is the quintessential neighborhood Portuguese restaurant, known for serving high-quality cuisine at very accessible prices. Those who come across Os Martinhos in Lumiar tend to make it a regular stop for daily meals at the restaurant or a convenient take-away to enjoy at home – after all, their dishes feel like home-cooking! Everything served here is good. They do not innovate, but there’s no need to. You can have great Portuguese octopus dishes, grilled fish, various recipes of chicken, all well cooked and tasting like tradition. For anyone looking to immerse themselves in the authentic tastes of Portugal without breaking the bank, Os Martinhos is a must-visit.
📍Rua Helena Vaz da Silva 15D, 1750-431 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/restauranteosmartinhos
Photo by Os Martinhos
Verde Mar
Verde Mar combines the best of Portuguese seafood traditions with modern dining. Offering 50 seats indoors and at the counter, plus an additional 30 on the terrace, this cervejaria and marisqueira is a testament to the rich coastal heritage of Portugal. “At Verde Mar, we love Portugal, our coast, and the good traditions,” the establishment proudly declares, ensuring that the essence of Portuguese convivial dining is alive and well. Guests can select their fish and seafood directly from a market-style counter or opt for the menu. The mariscadas (seafood platters) are highly recommended, available in two preset combinations (with or without lobster), or you can curate your own selection to suit your taste and budget. In good ‘ol local style, end your seafood meal with a prego steak sandwich.
📍Alameda das Linhas Torres, 68 A e B, 1750-140 Lisbon
https://www.verdemarcervejaria.pt
Photo by Lifecooler
Cantinho d’Arcada
This charming eatery, with its rustic decor and friendly service, specializes in authentic Portuguese food, serving a variety of classic dishes that capture the essence of Portugal’s cuisine. At Cantinho d’Arcada, patrons can expect to find a menu filled with beloved Portuguese staples, such as charcoal grilled fresh fish (the selection varies daily depending on the catch of the day), to hearty meat options like cozido, bitoque, and more. We recommend trying something a little more out of the ordinary, like for instance the hake roe in olive oil (ovas de pescada à Lagareiro). Cantinho d’Arcada serves really good food in a cozy ambiance – hands down, one of our favorite little corners (that’s what cantinho translates as) in Lumiar.
📍Rua Maria José Estanco 5D, 1600-793 Lisbon
Photo by Cantinho d’Arcada
O Loureiro
Located conveniently near the Museu Nacional do Traje, O Loureiro offers a welcoming respite for those who’ve spent the day wandering through the museum’s exhibits. This churrasqueira (grill house) offers lunches, dinners, and take-away options. Its menu promises a delightful experience with its tasty grilled dishes, amongst which, there’s one of the country’s very favorite ones: grilled chicken. Beyond the delicious cuisine, O Loureiro is praised for its competent staff and formidable service. The restaurant also features an inviting esplanade, providing the perfect setting to unwind after a long day of exploration around the neighborhood of Lumiar.
📍Rua do Lumiar 23, 1750-161 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/churrasqueiradoloureiro
Photo by Restaurant Guru
Recommended bakeries and pastelarias in Lumiar
Pastelaria Santo António do Bairro
The original Pastelaria Santo António, in the Lisbon neighborhood of Castelo, in the proximity of S. Jorge’s castle gained popularity after winning the competition for best pastel de nata in Lisbon a few years ago. It later opened its second location in Lumiar, where they also serve what is arguably one of the best Portuguese custard tarts in the city. Coming here almost compulsory translates into indulging in this iconic Portuguese treat, but besides this famous pastry, they also serve other sweet and savory options, including crepes, waffles, ice-cream, sandwiches, and more. But if you stick to the classic combo of pastel de nata and a glass of Port wine or Moscatel, we would definitely understand.
📍Rua República do Paraguai 30, 1750-249 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/pastelariasantonio
Photo by Pastelaria Santo António do Bairro
Flor do Lumiar
Flor do Lumiar is your typical Portuguese pastelaria, a place where you can come to buy bread to take home, stop for a coffee and a pastry at any time of the day, or enjoy breakfast just like the Portuguese would, maybe with a sandwich or heavily buttered toast, or perhaps starting with a sugar high first thing in the morning. The counter at Flor do Lumiar is full of temptations, including custard tarts, dense and doughy croissants (that’s exactly how we like them here in Portugal), God’s bread (soft brioche-like buns with a topping of egg jam and shredded coconut), as well as some savories and fritters too. Like many other pastelarias also do, during lunch hours, Flor do Lumiar serves home style meals at affordable prices that working folks from the area take good advantage of during the week.
📍Rua José da Costa Pedreira 14, 1750-148 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/pastelariaflorlumiar
Photo by Flor do Lumiar
Princesa do Lumiar
In the heart of Lumiar, Pastelaria Princesa do Lumiar is a place for indulgence. They have “fabrico próprio”, which is a portuguese expression that stands for in-house made products, and which you will often see near the name of the business right by the facade of good quality pastelerias. Besides the usual individual sweet breads and pastries you’d find in most Portuguese establishments of this type, they also make customized birthday cakes and ceremonial confections, as well as a wide selection of savory items. The spacious terrace invites you to unwind with a sweet treat on a sunny day in Lumiar.
📍Rua António Lopes Ribeiro 8, 1750-336 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/p/Pastelaria-Princesa-do-Lumiar-100054644280351
Photo by Princesa do Lumiar
Espigasol
Espigasol is a bakery and pastry shop known for its in-house production (fabrico próprio). It has been serving the local community since 1987. With locations in Telheiras (EspigaSol) and Quinta do Lambert (Trigueira), it has become a staple for those seeking the Portuguese style baked items, pastries, and savory snacks. From its inception in Telheiras over three decades ago, Espigasol initially focused on crafting a diverse array of breads, boasting more than 30 varieties. Responding to growing customer demands, it quickly expanded its offerings to include pastries and snacks, becoming a beloved destination for taste, quality and good value.
📍In Lumiar: Rua Manuel Marques, 8 G, 1750-171 Lisbon
📍In Telheiras: Rua Prof. Dias Amado 1C, 1600-613 Lisbon
Photo by Espigasol
A Padaria Portuguesa
A Padaria Portuguesa is a chain business which operates as a modern interpretation of the classic Portuguese bakery. Since its inception in 2010, the chain has rapidly expanded across Lisbon, including locations in Lumiar and Telheiras, among many others. The concept behind A Padaria Portuguesa is simple but it has proved to work very well: they want to provide high-quality, traditional Portuguese bakery and pastry products in a welcoming, modern environment, at fair prices. This is a good spot for breakfast, sweet or savory snacks, and even light meals, such as sandwiches, salads and some warm dishes. For a proper meal, we would certainly recommend checking out the other Lumiar restaurants we explored above. But for a cup of coffee and a sweet indulgence, A Padaria Portuguesa can certainly deliver.
📍In Lumiar: Alameda das Linhas de Torres 234 1750-151 Lisbon
📍In Quinta do Lambert: Rua Agostinho Neto 22 E 1750-006 Lisbon
📍In Telheiras: Rua Prof. Francisco Gentil 29, 1600-622 Lisbon
Photo by A Padaria Portuguesa
From the lush greenery of Quinta das Conchas to the historic streets lined with eateries focusing on Portuguese cuisine, Lumiar invites food lovers to uncover the flavors that define this lesser-known neighborhood of Lisbon.
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