Campo de Ourique travel guide for food lovers
The neighborhood of Campo de Ourique in Lisbon is not exactly unknown. Lisbon residents flock to this area for its vibrant streets full of local shops, where international chains are not as popular as one-off boutiques and specialty stores. It is also a preferred neighborhood for expats, who tend to appreciate the quarter’s balance between happening commercial areas and quiet residential blocks, where the Art Nouveau apartment buildings which were mostly built during the 19th and 20th centuries don’t usually get too high.
Tourists often pass by Campo de Ourique aboard the much in-demand tram 28, whose route takes folks around some of the most picturesque neighborhoods of Lisbon, and which ends right at the heart of the neighborhood. But even though a lot of visitors make it here because of this scenic ride, they don’t always end up taking a little time to explore the area.
Whether you come to Campo de Ourique via tram or in any other way, we guarantee you that this neighborhood of Lisbon has a lot of treasures worth your time and attention. So much so that at Taste of Lisboa we have curated an entire gastronomic and cultural experience which aims to uncover the best of the area, starting with a visit to the local food market, and passing by some of the most distinguished food establishments which aren’t always that well known amongst foreigners.
In this article dedicated to food lovers, we focus on Campo de Ourique’s best edible offerings, concentrating on Portuguese food. But keep in mind that, apart from all things local, Campo de Ourique has plenty of internationally inspired eateries, and besides the world of food itself, there are other things worth checking out in the area, such as Aqueduto das Águas Livres, an 18th century aqueduct; Casa Fernando Pessoa, a cultural center housed in the former residence of poet Fernando Pessoa; Amoreiras, a high-end shopping center with an impressive rooftop with a 360° panoramic view of Lisbon; and even the cemetery of Prazeres, which was built in the early 19th century and has really eye-catching mausoleums.
As exploring Campo de Ourique on foot is bound to leave you hungry, here are the best restaurants and food shops in the neighborhood:
Traditional and contemporary Portuguese food in Campo de Ourique
Casa dos Passarinhos
We start our restaurant recommendations in Campo de Ourique with a classic Portuguese focusing on grills. Besides dishes prepared over charcoal, such as steak and fresh fish, Casa dos Passarinhos is also a popular option for fried cuttlefish, the famous choco frito most often eaten in the city of Setúbal in the south bank on the Tagus river. If Casa dos Passarinhos has been open since 1923 it certainly is for a good [tasty] reason!
📍Rua Silva Carvalho 195, 1250-249 Lisbon
Imperial de Campo de Ourique
A classic of Campo de Ourique’s restaurant scene, Imperial is a traditional Portuguese restaurant that brings together the elements that make a good dining experience: amazing food and friendly service. Going to Imperial de Campo de Ourique is almost like going to Mr. João’s house, who has many years ago come down to Lisbon from the northern Portuguese province of Minho, known for its hearty abundant meals and warm hospitality. The menu varies according to the day of the week, but traditional northern dishes such as Minho style salted cod, bacalhau à Minhota, or meats stew cozido à Portuguesa are some of the regulars’ favorites.
📍Rua Correia Teles 67, 1350-095 Lisbon
If you start realizing how many restaurants there are all over Lisbon dedicated to Alentejo’s cuisine, you may indeed start realizing that this is one of Portugal’s most acclaimed regional cuisines. O Magano has been paying tribute to the best recipes from the Alentejo for over a decade, gathering a loyal legion of regular customers who appreciate its hearty cuisine, generous portions and pleasant ambiance.
📍Rua Tomás da Anunciação 52A, 1350-328 Lisbon
Pigmeu takes Portugal’s love story with pigs to the next level, dedicating most of the menu to pork dishes. This nose to tail restaurant aims to serve tasty food, but also to raise awareness for a more sustainable and conscious consumption of meat, making very good use of every single part of the animal. As such, expect to come across bifanas, typical Portuguese pork sandwiches, and succulent ribs, but also crispy pork ears or liver cooked with garlic. If you’re visiting with plant-based folks, worry not, as they also have some vegetarian options.
📍Rua 4 de Infantaria 68, 1350-274 Lisbon
Visiting A Trempe is like going to the countryside of Portugal without leaving Campo de Ourique! The colorful checked tablecloths and, especially, the interior tiled roof are responsible for the rustic charm of this restaurant. The menu is inspired by the regional cuisine of Alentejo, and it features several petiscos as well as hearty dishes like fried fish with tomato rice, and several pork recipes. To round up your meal order a traditional cinnamony sericaia [inserir blog post sobre sobremesas] from Alentejo.
📍Rua Coelho da Rocha 11, 1250-087 Lisbon
Tasca da Esquina
Chef Vítor Sobral runs Tasca da Esquina, a place that has the word tasca in its name, but that is several points above a traditional Portuguese tasca. Their menu is full of appetizers and dishes inspired by the repertoire of traditional Portuguese cuisine, but that are here reinterpreted with more contemporary twists, when it comes to the cooking techniques, flavor development wise and even at presentation level. On a sunny day, sitting at Tasca da Esquina’s outdoor terrace to leisurely sample some of these dishes with a good bottle of wine is such a pleasant thing to do in Campo de Ourique.
📍Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C, 1350-119 Lisbon
Coelho da Rocha
We have recently recommended Coelho da Rocha in our article with tips for solo travelers in Lisbon, as it has a great counter where you can eat by yourself without feeling lonely. Sitting by the counter can act as a mix of dining experience plus cooking demonstration, guaranteeing that your food tastes even better as you see all that goes into making it. Charcoal grills and Alentejo dishes are the stars of the show at Coelho da Rocha.
📍Rua Coelho da Rocha 104, 1350-075 Lisbon
A pan-fried thin beef steak, seasoned with olive oil, garlic and bay leaf, topped with a sunny side up egg. Served with simple sides of white rice, fried potatoes and, sometimes, a little side salad or other cooked vegetables. This is what a bitoque is all about, and it just happens to be one of the most quintessential daily dishes all across Portugal. Many restaurants serve bitoque, from cheaper eateries to fancier restaurants. At O Bitoque in Campo de Ourique you’ll find no more no less than one of the best bitoques in Lisbon.
📍Rua Ferreira Borges 59 61, 1350-133 Lisbon
O Tachinho is another great spot for a bitoque in Campo de Ourique. They’re also famous for serving Francesinha, a loaded meat sandwich drenched in tomato beer sauce pictured here, and which is one of the most iconic recipes from the northern Portuguese city of Porto. Besides that, O Tachinho’s menu features a vast list of petiscos, which bring together specialities from Portugal as well as Spanish tapas. A true Iberian experience!
📍Rua 4 de Infantaria 6D, 1350-271 Lisbon
Solar dos Duques
Another gem of traditional Portuguese food in Campo de Ourique, Solar dos Duques focuses on the cuisine from Alentejo. Their appetizer list includes regional specialities such as cheeses and charcuterie, while the main menu includes a permanent list of Alentejo recipes as well as daily specials. Besides an extensive wine list, the desserts’ menu is another highlight of Solar dos Duques, featuring traditional sweets from the Alentejo such as sericaia, and typical puddings from all over Portugal like leite creme (Portuguese crème brûlée) or arroz doce (sweet rice pudding).
📍Rua Almeida e Sousa 58B, 1350-015 Lisbon
Ilha da Madeira
Restaurant Ilha da Madeira presents you with the opportunity to try dishes from the Portuguese archipelago of Madeira without leaving the heart of Campo de Ourique. As you can see in the photo here, skewers, known in Portuguese as espetadas, are not to be missed, and they can feature meat, fish or a mix of both. Maria, native from Madeira, is responsible for the authentic Madeirense cuisine which you can try here, including the much sought-after tuna steaks. Hopefully you’ll crave traveling to Madeira next!
📍Rua Campo de Ourique 33, 1250-059 Lisbon
A Padaria do Povo
Even though the name of this establishment translates as “the people’s bakery”, baked goods are not its main business. A Padaria do Povo is part café, part bar, part restaurant and, above all, a meeting place for people from Campo de Ourique and visitors to hang out around the table. Drinks, petiscos and some dishes make an appearance between loud laughters of conviviality. Open 7 days a week, A Padaria do Povo also serves daily specials (one soup, a meat dish and a fish recipe too), which are announced on their Instagram page below.
📍Rua Luís Derouet 20A, 1350-135 Lisbon
This contemporary Portuguese tavern is a beautiful option for a date in Campo de Ourique, but also for a solo night out, as there are 8 places right by the counter, which allow you to sit down comfortably by yourself, while taking a sneak peak into the kitchen. Expect elevated Portuguese classics, that is, typical Portuguese dishes with a little twist of refinement or unexpected elements. Try the black octopus rice, the stewed pork cheeks served with Madeira island style flatbreads, or the vegetarian mushroom risotto with parmesan and Port wine. Exciting dishes in a trendy atmosphere.
📍Rua Coelho da Rocha 110 A B, 1350-013 Lisbon
Cafés, bakeries and dessert shops in Campo de Ourique
Speaking about contemporary Portuguese desserts is synonymous with talking about Ana Raminhos, one of the most stellar dessert chefs in our country today. Her homonymous space in Campo de Ourique has just opened in 2022 and it features a small but highly curated menu, which includes a few savory options, but that naturally has the sweet dishes as focal point. The list keeps changing based on seasonal products, with flavor profiles that mix Portuguese elements with international influences. Do yourself a favor and pay a visit to Raminhos Desserts for a truly delightful experience which, by the way, can be paired with a pretty interesting list of natural wines!
📍Rua Pereira e Sousa 53B, 1350-236 Lisbon
Padaria da Esquina
This bakery is a sister shop of Tasca da Esquina and Taberna da Esquina, all owned by celebrity chef Vítor Sobral, in this case along with baker and Portuguese bread icon Mário Rolando. One of their focuses is artisanal slowly fermented bread, as well as the typical range of sweet and savory baked goods you ought to find in a Portuguese pastelaria. Even though Padaria da Esquina started in Campo de Ourique, you can now also purchase their high quality products in the neighborhood of Restelo and Mercado de Alvalade.
📍Rua Coelho da Rocha 108, 1350-079 Lisbon
Aloma is, hands down, one of the best typical Portuguese pastry shops in Lisbon. They have several stores across the city but the original one is right here, in Campo de Ourique. They are particularly well-known for their impeccable Portuguese custard tarts, which have won several awards in Lisbon’s competition dedicated to highlighting the best pastel de nata in and around the city. Come to Aloma to have breakfast like a Portuguese, or simply for a coffee break and a pastry, which is something us locals often do mid morning or in the afternoon.
📍Rua Francisco Metrass 67, 1350-139 Lisbon
Ask Campo de Ourique residents to talk about their favorite local pastelaria in the neighborhood, and chances are many will point you towards Lomar. They make everything they serve in-house and one of their most popular items is the brioche style croissant, dense and doughy, with a very light glaze on top. This is a very popular option as part of a typical Portuguese breakfast in the city. This family run pastry shop was started by father Mr. Oliviera, but son José Carlos Carvalho who’s nowadays in charge plans to keep up with the deliciously sweet high standards regular customers are used to at Lomar.
📍Rua Correia Teles 23B, 1350-093 Lisbon
Coming to a Tentadora on a weekend morning to grab an espresso coffee while reading the newspaper on their outdoor sitting, as the neighborhood comes alive with families strolling around or running errands, is a quintessential Campo de Ourique pleasure. A Tentadora has all the Portuguese classics typically found at a pastelaria, from toasties and savory goods, to pastries and, of course, hot and cold beverages. During lunch hours they also serve a few specials, only available during weekdays.
📍Rua Ferreira Borges 1, 1350-133 Lisbon
O Ponto Mais Doce da Cidade
This cake shop is heaven on earth for dessert aficionados! Its name translates as “the sweetest spot in town” and it would certainly be hard to argue that. If you happen to pass by O Ponto Mais Doce da Cidade’s window shop while walking around Campo de Ourique, it’ll be hard to resist walking in – it’s like the frosted beauties on display are looking you in the eye and calling out your name. Here you’ll find cakes, tarts and ice-creams, and rumor has it their bolo brigadeiro, a chocolate confection which originated in Brazil but that is popular all over Portugal, is a must!
📍Rua Saraiva de Carvalho 120A, 1250-245 Lisbon
Paupério is a well-beloved vintage brand of Portuguese biscuits that a few years ago opened a flagship store in Campo de Ourique. They have been making cookies and confections for over 140 years and have found that this neighborhood of Lisbon, where a taste for unique things combined with a certain level of spending power, was the right place to come in direct contact with customers with a sweet tooth. Paupério makes biscuits and cookies in a good old fashioned way, but also fruit preserves, jellies and marmalades, which can all be purchased in Campo de Ourique.
📍Rua Almeida e Sousa 49A, 1350-071 Lisbon
Where to grab a drink in Campo de Ourique
This historical cocktail bar officially opened back in 1974, the year when Portugal transitioned from dictatorship to democracy. For at least one year before that, it was known that the owner of the space was already receiving guests, including members of the secret police who’d pop by for a drink. Today, this is one of the most iconic establishments in Lisbon. Unless you know where to go, it’s very unlikely you’ll just come across it as A Paródia is not located in an area known for its nightlife. Visit to enjoy the disruptive vibe, but also flavorful cocktails, including their famous ginger margarita, velvet hammer or blue devil.
📍Rua do Patrocínio, 26-b 1350-229 Lisbon
This is one of the F&B stalls you’ll find inside Mercado de Campo de Ourique after the produce market turns into a foodie haven. This is a fully gin dedicated bar, with lots of international brands but also Portuguese gins, which are worth trying if you’re into G&Ts but would like to try something local while you’re visiting Lisbon. Overall, they have more than 84 brands of gin from all over the globe. Take your pick(s), drink responsibly and enjoy!
📍Mercado de Campo de ourique, Rua Coelho da Rocha 104, 1350-075 Lisbon
Mestre da Cerveja
This craft beer bar and store is, hand-down, the best place in Campo de Ourique dedicated to artisanal ales. Mestre da Cerveja is part store, with imported international beers with focus on countries such as Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands and the USA, but you can also spend some time here to taste a variety of drinks before you decide what to take home. The petiscos platters they serve with the beers are bound to make you want to take a seat and spend some time here.
📍Rua Tomás da Anunciação 88B, 1350-092 Lisbon
Specialized food and wine stores in Campo de Ourique
Mercado de Campo de Ourique
Many visitors to Lisbon would have heard of Time Out Market, in Cais do Sodré. This space is a fresh food market during the mornings, and a gourmet food hall until late at night. The same happens at Mercado de Campo de Ourique, yet at a smaller scale. You can come here to shop for fresh produce or typical groceries such as canned fish or gourmet olive oil, and grab a meal at one of the several stalls, which cover traditional Portuguese food, contemporary bites, plant-based options, desserts and lots of drinks!
📍Rua Coelho da Rocha 104, 1350-075 Lisbon
Housed inside the market of Campo de Ourique, Erva D’Ouro is a gourmet grocery store which specializes in Portuguese products such as wines, regional olive oils and preserves. It’s a popular stop to purchase gift packs and hampers with a little bit of everything – if you have space on your baggage, some of these may be worth the splurge. If not, you can always come here to buy smaller gifts or a few products to sample while you’re in Lisbon itself.
📍Mercado Campo de Ourique, Loja 11, 1350-075 Lisbon
Garrafeira Campo de Ourique
This wine store has a collection of over 200 bottles for sale, but besides operating as a shop, it also organizes wine tastings. On regular days, they always have at least 6 labels which you can try by the glass, 3 white and 3 red, and there’s no need to rush as beautiful cheese, charcuterie and vegetable platters can be enjoyed with the wines both inside the store as well as al fresco. If you’re looking to buy Portuguese wine in the neighborhood, Garrafeira Campo de Ourique is the place to go!
📍Rua Tomás da Anunciação 29 A, 1350-322 Lisbon
Do you now feel like including Campo de Ourique on your Lisbon itinerary? If so, we look forward to seeing your photos when you finally make it there! Please share with us via Instagram Facebook,or Twitter and tag us @tasteoflisboa and #tasteoflisboa.
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